The Best Rolex Submariner Homages | From Budget Copies to Premium Contenders

Alvin
22 hours ago
24 min read

The Rolex Submariner is one of a handful of watches I repeatedly think, 'I wish I had bought one of those bastards.' Then I think I will definitely buy one of those, when I find a deal. So, I guess I haven't found one yet. It would have to be the 40mm version, reference 116610LN, deals to be had, which careful purchase. Some people, though, prefer much better deals.

For some there are watches that are a 'must have' on the journey through time. For many, the Submariner is one of those. It's an icon. For others, that prestige, that status makes it a must have 'style'. I used to frown on homages, until I bought one without realising it was one (Sugess Panda Chrono > Breitling Premier Top Time). So, I must respect the wishes of those who want a homage. They can serve a purpose. They can look great.

Very few watches have been imitated as comprehensively as the Rolex Submariner (maybe other Rolexes, GMT Master II, Day-Date). That is partly a consequence of success. The Submariner has been around since 1953, its basic design has changed gradually rather than radically, and it helped establish a visual language that now seems almost inseparable from the dive watch itself. It's a legend.

Rolex Submariner 5512 Vintage
Rolex Submariner 126610LN

It's that Black dial with large luminous markers. . That rotating shiny, ceramic black timing bezel. Strong crown guards. Three-link bracelet. Broad hands. A case that looks substantial without becoming cumbersome. None of those ingredients belongs exclusively to Rolex. Put enough of them together in the right proportions, however, and the result starts looking distinctly familiar.

That creates a strange market. At one end, an Addiesdive can give you a recognisable version of the formula for well below £100. At the other, Ginault asks more than £1,000 for an extensively finished interpretation of essentially the same idea. Between them sit Pagani Design, San Martin, Sugess, Watchdives, Cronos, Steinhart, Invicta and Davosa.

They are not all doing quite the same thing, nor are they all equally easy to justify.

This guide looks at the original Rolex Submariner, the design elements that have been copied most often, 10 Submariner homages currently worth knowing, and the rather more difficult question of when buying one actually makes sense. While we focus here on the original black dial, black bezel version, many of the brands provide the other colour variations modelling on Rolex favourites (Hulk, Starbucks, Bluesy, etc).

The Original: Rolex Submariner

*Rolex officially lists the case at 41mm but does not publish thickness or lug-to-lug. Independent measurements put the actual case diameter at roughly 40.5mm, thickness at around 12mm and lug-to-lug at approximately 47.6mm.

Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN with black dial, black ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet

For this guide, the Submariner Date 126610LN is the most useful version of the original.

The Submariner itself dates to 1953, when Rolex introduced its first divers' wristwatch waterproof to 100 metres. The Submariner Date arrived in 1969, adding the feature that would eventually become one of the most copied elements of the entire design: a date aperture at three o'clock viewed through Rolex's Cyclops magnifying lens. Today's Submariner and Submariner Date are both rated to 300 metres.

That distinction matters here. Most of the homages in this guide are not simply mimicking the general idea of a black Rolex dive watch. They follow the Submariner Date template, usually with a date at three, a Cyclops, Mercedes-style hour hand, circular and rectangular luminous markers, black timing bezel, crown guards and three-link Oyster-style bracelet.

The current 126610LN therefore provides the clearest benchmark.

Introduced in 2020 as the successor to the 116610LN, it retained the familiar black-dial, black-bezel appearance but revised the proportions considerably. Rolex officially calls it a 41mm watch, although independent measurement puts the case closer to 40.5mm. More important than the nominal increase in diameter were the slimmer lugs and wider 21mm bracelet, which softened the broad, squared-off appearance of the previous-generation 116610LN's so-called Super Case.

The bezel uses a scratch-resistant black Cerachrom ceramic insert with platinum-coated numerals and graduations. The sapphire crystal carries the Cyclops over the date, while the Oyster case uses Rolex's screw-down Triplock crown and provides 300 metres of water resistance. The three-link Oyster bracelet is secured by an Oysterlock safety clasp with the tool-free Glidelock adjustment system.

Inside is Rolex's automatic calibre 3235, with an instantaneous date, approximately 70 hours of power reserve and Rolex's Superlative Chronometer specification of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. The current UK retail price is £9,500, with Rolex listing the same reference at $11,350 in the US.

And the no-date Submariner 124060?

The 124060 remains important because it is arguably the cleaner expression of the original Submariner idea. It shares the current generation's 41mm Oystersteel case, black Cerachrom bezel, Oyster bracelet and 300-metre water resistance, but removes the date and Cyclops and uses the no-date calibre 3230. Rolex currently lists it at £8,450 / $10,050.

Some homage makers offer no-date variants modelled on this simpler configuration. For the watches covered in this guide, however, the 126610LN is the more relevant modern reference.

Rolex Submariner 124060 with black dial, black ceramic bezel and Oyster bracelet

What exactly is Submariner DNA?

It's true that dive watches share functional characteristics because they have to perform broadly similar jobs - they should be a tough, legible, with a rotating bezel for timing. There is a difference between making a conventional dive watch and making something that is clearly intended to mimic a Submariner.

The resemblance becomes harder to dismiss when several specific Submariner cues appear together:

an Oyster-style case with pronounced crown guards
a black bezel with Rolex-like numerals and graduation layout
circular and rectangular luminous hour markers with a triangle at twelve
a Mercedes-style hour hand
a broad minute hand and lollipop-style seconds hand
a date window and magnifying Cyclops
an Oyster-style three-link bracelet
a Submariner-like clasp and dive extension
very similar case polishing and brushing patterns

Homages tend to stay on script and copy the lot. Others take the architecture and change the hands, dial or bezel. We have a mix below, but why would anyone buy such a copycat?

Why do people buy Rolex Submariner homages?

The obvious answer is price, but that's not the whole story.

The design is excellent

You don't need to want a Rolex to appreciate the Submariner's layout. The dial is legible, the case is versatile and the overall proportions work with almost anything. Seventy years of gradual evolution have brought a package that is universally loved. And some buyers simply want that design.

A Rolex Submariner costs £9,500

That is the current UK retail price of the 126610LN, before getting into the practical question of whether your chosen authorised retailer will actually sell you one. It's £9,950 for the green bezel, affectionately known as the 'Starbucks'. A £150 homage and an £9,500 Rolex do not need to offer equivalent ownership experiences for the cheaper watch to make sense. They aren't really competing on equal terms.

You can wear one without thinking about it

So, you've got the iconic design language on your wrist. That 'cheap' watch can be taken on holiday, worn in the sea, knocked against a door frame or left in a hotel room without producing the same level of anxiety as an expensive Rolex. That has value.

Some homages offer better dimensions for a particular wrist

If you want less watch for less money, this is one of the more legitimate reasons to look beyond an original. The current Submariner is officially 41mm. Steinhart's Ocean One is 39mm with a 46.78mm lug-to-lug. Ginault gives you a 40mm case only 11.5mm thick. Watchdives gets its WD5512 down to 11.8mm. If you love the design but not the current Rolex's dimensions, a homage can offer something the original manufacturer does not.

They can be a useful test

Maybe you've only ever worn dress style watches and are eyeing up a Submariner. Buying an inexpensive homage can reveal whether you actually enjoy the design. Maybe you discover that black-dial divers are exactly what you want. Maybe you discover that you find it too big or rather plain after two weeks. The second outcome is considerably cheaper at £100 than at £10k.

The Rolex Submariner Homages

Addiesdive MY-H3-C

This is the cheapest end of this guide, the Addiesdive makes the homage argument remarkably simple. It is unmistakably based on the Submariner formula and immediately recognisable. What is unusual here is the movement. Rather than fitting the near-ubiquitous NH35 automatic, Addiesdive uses a Miyota 2115 quartz calibre. This means the price is lower, £43/$59 when checked. Bonkers.

Addiesdive MY-H3-C Submariner homage dive watch

For some buyers that will make it less interesting. For others it arguably makes more sense.

If the objective is an inexpensive, robust watch using a familiar dive-watch design, quartz removes some of the pretence. It should be accurate, easy to live with and inexpensive to replace. Addiesdive still claims 200 metres of water resistance and provides a screw-down crown. Mineral rather than sapphire crystal is an obvious cost saving, while the 13mm thickness and 48mm lug-to-lug make it larger on the wrist than the price or simple design might suggest. It has a yachtmaster style bezel which some will welcome.

Still, at around £40 before any tax or import considerations, there is relatively little financial risk involved. This is the kind of price at which the moral and collecting arguments around homage watches matter less than the simple question: do you like the design enough to wear it?

What owners and reviewers say: The MY-H3-C is a fan fave, attracting remarkably positive feedback once its very low price is taken into account. Owners commonly describe it as an ideal beater, while hands-on reviews praise the case finishing, crisp bezel action, bracelet articulation and general solidity for a watch costing well below £50/$50 during promotions. The main compromises are predictable: mineral rather than sapphire crystal, a basic clasp and male end links that increase the effective wrist span, but the recurring view is that Addiesdive delivers considerably more watch than the price suggests. And low price/high quality rubber straps and nato's add to the proposition.

Pagani Design PD-1661

The PD-1661 represents one of the central attractions of Chinese homage watches: specifications that look disproportionately strong for the price. Around £100 buys an automatic movement, sapphire crystal, ceramic timing bezel, steel bracelet and a tight case. The Mercedes handset, bezel, dial layout, case guards, bracelet and general proportions all follow the Rolex template closely.

Pagani Design PD-1661 black Submariner-style automatic watch

Even among direct homages this sits towards the more literal end. That will either be precisely the attraction or precisely the problem. Pagani's case is strongest when considered simply as a low-cost mechanical watch. At this price there are inevitable questions around consistency, clasp quality, bezel action, lume and long-term quality control, but it seems to hold up well. For someone who wants the Submariner appearance for around £100, the PD-1661 remains difficult to ignore.

What owners and reviewers say: The PD-1661 is repeatedly praised for the amount of hardware it provides for the money: sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, solid bracelet components and generally respectable case and dial finishing. The criticism is equally consistent. Lume is weak, bracelet and clasp edges can feel sharp, bezel action is not always as tight as more expensive competitors, and alignment appears somewhat dependent on the individual example. Owners who receive a good one tend to regard it as exceptional value, but Pagani's quality control remains part of the bargain.

Invicta Pro Diver 8926OB

Invicta is easy to dismiss because the brand's enormous catalogue, inflated-looking MSRPs and much larger watches tend to dominate its reputation - also, there are some legit fugly ass offerings. The 8926OB is different. It has been around for years, uses very conventional dimensions and remains one of the most recognisable entry points into mechanical watches.

Invicta Pro Diver 8926OB black automatic Submariner homage

The 40mm case, black coin-edge bezel, Mercedes-style handset, circular markers, date magnifier and three-link bracelet leave little doubt about the source material. There are compromises. The crystal is mineral rather than sapphire and the bracelet and clasp are basic. The case is also relatively thick at around 14mm. Its official pricing requires caution $495 MSRP seen somewhere is incorrect, independent watch publications continue to report normal transaction prices under $100.

It isn't refined. But it is an established, automatic, 200-metre watch with sensible proportions and a design that buyers already know they like.

What owners and reviewers say: The 8926OB has developed a surprisingly loyal following, including owners who have worn theirs for many years. Durability, the reliable automatic movement and sensible 40mm proportions are frequently cited as strengths, and even enthusiasts who dislike much of Invicta's catalogue often make an exception for the Pro Diver. Criticism usually centres on mediocre lume, the mineral crystal, prominent Invicta branding and occasionally stiff bezel action; there are also owner reports suggesting some variation between production runs. Bought at the heavily discounted prices for which it is famous, the overall verdict remains unusually favourable.

San Martin SN017-G-V3

San Martin is important because it's one of the brands that illustrates how far the Chinese homage market has moved beyond watches that are merely cheap. They blast out high quality homages like there's no tomorrow. And the SN017 formula lives rent free in Submariner territory.

San Martin SN017-G-V3 black Submariner homage watch

The specification is hard to dismiss. There is a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ceramic bezel insert, BGW9 lume, 200 metres of water resistance and the proven NH35 automatic calibre. The 48mm lug-to-lug is conventional and should make the watch manageable on a fairly broad range of wrists, although it's 13mm thick.

San Martin's broader appeal has increasingly been build quality rather than simply specification. Its better watches are bought by enthusiasts who already know what an NH35 and sapphire crystal cost and are looking instead at case finishing, bracelets, bezels and clasps. That makes the design issue more interesting.

At £100, copying the Submariner can simply be understood as an inexpensive way into a proven look. As the quality rises, you start asking whether the manufacturer should be using that capability to make something more distinctive. The SN017 remains one of the clearest reminders of where much of the brand's enthusiast recognition came from.

What owners and reviewers say: San Martin's SN017 is regularly held up as one of the watches that moved Chinese homages beyond the purely budget category. Case and bracelet finishing, strong lume, bezel action and the solidity of the overall construction receive repeated praise, with some owners comparing its execution favourably with considerably more expensive watches. The less flattering reports concern sharp case or bracelet edges, occasional bezel or Cyclops alignment issues and differences between individual examples. The broader consensus, though, is that the SN017 feels substantially more expensive than its selling price suggests.

Watchdives WD1680Q V2

Here's a no-date for the cyclops haters. The WD1680Q V2 takes familiar Submariner styling and gives it an unusually practical twist. Instead of an automatic movement, Watchdives uses Seiko’s VH31 sweeping quartz calibre, which ticks four times per second and helps keep the case exceptionally slim. You still get sapphire crystal, a screw-down crown, 200m water resistance, a ceramic bezel with fully lumed markings and BGW9 lume on the dial.

The current black Mercedes-hand version has no date or Cyclops, so visually it sits closer to the broader no-date 124060 Submariner formula. The thin case also gives it a character of its own. If you like the Sub look but want quartz accuracy, grab-and-go convenience and something that disappears under a cuff, here you go. Happy days. There’s also a black Milsub version with sword hands if you like vintage looks, or want a little more distance from the conventional modern Submariner look.

What owners and reviewers say: The slimness is the feature owners mention most, with plenty praising its comfort, finishing, lume and VH31 movement for the money. The redesigned V2 rehaut is shallower than before, although some owners still think it still looks too deep, and there are isolated reports of bezel play, slight misalignment and a flaky clasp that needs a firm second click to secure properly. Overall, feedback is strongly positive on value, particularly from buyers who specifically wanted a thin quartz Sub homage rather than another NH35 automatic.

Cronos L6005

Cronos occupies similar territory to San Martin, Sugess and Watchdives: relatively inexpensive Chinese watches where the appeal increasingly comes from finishing and component choice rather than simply being the cheapest option. The L6005 goes with the yachtmaster style bezel, and uses the PT5000 rather than the NH35, giving it the higher 28,800vph beat rate associated with ETA 2824-style architecture.

Cronos L6005 PT5000 black Submariner homage

It is not especially thin, however. At 13.5mm, the Cronos is noticeably taller on paper than some of the others. Everything else is familiar: 40mm diameter, just under 48mm lug-to-lug, sapphire, ceramic and 200 metres of water resistance. The visual similarity is again direct rather than incidental. The date version with magnifier is especially close to the modern Submariner Date formula, while Cronos has also offered no-date versions.

At around £170, it remains very inexpensive relative to its specification. The more difficult comparison is not against Rolex but against San Martin, Sugess and Watchdives.

Once several watches are offering almost the same design, similar movements and similar materials for similar money, factors such as QC, bracelet feel, clasp adjustment, seller reputation and returns become more important than another hundred metres of claimed water resistance or another line on a specification sheet.

What owners and reviewers say: The L6005 is generally praised for its case finishing, bracelet, clasp and PT5000 movement, with owners frequently reporting very good accuracy and placing it alongside San Martin and Sugess at the upper end of inexpensive Chinese Sub homages. The bracelet in particular gets good feedback for its smooth finishing and tolerances. Criticism is less consistent but includes some bezel and end-link play, occasional imperfect end-link fit, a relatively thick crystal and caseback, and isolated QC or movement problems. Comparisons with San Martin and Sugess tend to come down to details rather than a clear difference in overall quality.

Sugess Seaman SW116610LN

The model name might not be the coolest, in fact, it might be downright ready for ridicule, but Sugess specifies the 4Hz ST2130, sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel and 200-metre water resistance - which isn't too shabby. It's an able seaman. The reference number tells you quite a lot before seeing the watch. SW116610LN is not trying to obscure its inspiration. Rolex's previous-generation black ceramic Submariner Date was reference 116610LN, and the Sugess follows that watch closely. The dimensions are sensible. A 40.5mm case and 12.5mm thickness give it proportions closer to the real object than some thicker budget alternatives.

Sugess Seaman SW116610LN black automatic Submariner homage

The movement is also noteworthy. Sea-Gull's ST2130 is a 4Hz automatic running at 28,800vph, rather than the slower-beat NH35 found in many watches at this price. This is therefore not merely a cheap watch shaped approximately like a Submariner. It is a deliberate attempt to deliver much of the visual and mechanical experience for a fraction of the cost.

That makes it one of the stronger pure homages on specification. It also means originality is almost entirely beside the point. For buyers comfortable with that trade-off, the Seaman is compelling. For buyers who dislike direct homages, very little about the quality-to-price ratio is likely to change their mind. The model name might also put some off...

What owners and reviewers say: The Seaman receives some of the strongest owner feedback of any Chinese Submariner homage. Finishing, the shallow engraved rehaut, bracelet and adjustable clasp, applied dial furniture and the smooth 4Hz ST2130 movement are repeatedly singled out, and owners who have also handled San Martin, Cronos and Pagani models frequently put the Sugess at or near the top of the group. Criticism tends to concern the rather unfortunate Seaman name, minor bezel play on some examples and a case that can look longer on the wrist than its nominal diameter suggests. Lume feedback is more mixed, but the overall build and attention to detail are very consistently praised.

Steinhart Ocean One 39 Nova Black

Steinhart has spent years near the centre of the homage debate. The Ocean One family has historically contained watches extremely close to Rolex sports-watch designs, and the modern Nova version shows an attempt to move the formula slightly further away.

Steinhart Ocean One 39 Nova Black Swiss dive watch

The architecture remains recognisable. The case profile, crown guards, ceramic timing bezel and three-link bracelet are in substantial debt to the Submariner. This is one of the watches that sits near the boundary between direct homage and heavily Submariner-derived design. The dimensions are a major strength.

At 39mm across and only 46.78mm lug-to-lug, the Ocean One 39 is one of the smallest-wearing mechanical watches in this guide. That gives buyers something Rolex itself currently does not: the basic modern Submariner concept scaled down substantially.

The Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré also differentiates it from the inexpensive Chinese watches using NH35, PT5000 or ST2130 movements. Steinhart is Swiss Made, water resistant to 300 metres and currently sells the watch for €740. Whether that justifies several times the price of a San Martin or Watchdives depends on what you value.

What owners and reviewers say: The Ocean One 39 has long been praised for doing the fundamentals properly: strong case finishing, a reliable Swiss movement, good bracelet construction, genuine dive-watch specification and dimensions that are noticeably friendlier than many Submariner-style watches. Owners regularly describe the 39mm case as comfortable and versatile, while longer-term feedback on reliability is generally positive. The debate has increasingly shifted towards price rather than quality: with Chinese homages now offering impressive finishing for far less, some enthusiasts question whether a €700-plus Steinhart still represents the bargain it once did. Few of those criticisms, however, suggest that the watch itself is poorly made.

Looking for smaller dive watches than this one, click here to check out the best dive watches for smaller wrists.

Davosa Ternos Diver

The watch was listed at €1,100 and in stock when checked. This was a shock as the last time this brand came on the radar I'm sure they were around the €400 mark. What the actual? You buy a Longines for this money... it's a very interesing space. Can the Davosa Ternos make a case for itself? Its quality proposition is clear enough. The case is sensibly sized at 40mm by 47.9mm and only 12.5mm thick. There is sapphire crystal, a ceramic bezel, 200-metre water resistance, BGW9 Super-LumiNova and Davosa's automatic DAV 3021. The current clasp also offers micro-adjustment.

Davosa Ternos Diver 161.550.07 black Swiss dive watch

But visually the Ternos remains extremely close to the Submariner. Davosa even offers the watch with or without a date magnifier. Someone spending £100-$200 on an obvious homage can reasonably say that few comparable original mechanical watches exist at the same price. Someone spending close to £1,000 has far more choice. The Davosa therefore has to be justified on quality, Swiss manufacture, specification and the fact that the buyer specifically wants this design. It can no longer rely on price alone. For some people that is perfectly reasonable. For others, £1,000 is approximately 750 miles beyond the point at which a watch needs to bring more identity of its own.

What owners and reviewers say: Owner feedback on the Ternos is overwhelmingly positive about finishing, bezel feel, accuracy and bracelet construction. Several owners with experience of more expensive Swiss watches describe the case and bracelet as impressively well executed, while accuracy of only a few seconds per day is repeatedly reported. Davosa's customer service also receives favourable mentions. The larger issue is less about execution than positioning: at current four-figure pricing the Ternos is competing with a much wider range of distinctive watches than it did when earlier versions were substantially cheaper, making its very close adherence to the Submariner formula a more significant consideration.

Ginault Ocean-Rover II

Ginault is the most interesting watch in this guide if the subject is not simply value, but how much a homage can reasonably cost. The company itself describes the Ocean-Rover II as using a “pre-ceramic (5-digit) style mid-case”. There is therefore no need to infer what period of Submariner design it is referencing.

IMAGE – place here: Ginault Ocean-Rover II official product gallerySuggested alt text:

Ginault Ocean-Rover II black ceramic premium Submariner homage

The execution is notably different from a £150 Chinese homage. The case is hand finished, the ceramic bezel has platinum-coated engraving, the sapphire crystal receives a multi-layer anti-reflective treatment, and Ginault says each Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré movement is regulated over six weeks before assembly. It looks like a slick package.

The proportions are excellent. A 40mm diameter, 47.7mm lug-to-lug and only 11.5mm thickness make the Ocean-Rover II the slimmest mechanical watch in this guide. Those dimensions are closer to the restrained proportions enthusiasts often associate with earlier Submariners than the heavier stance of many modern homages.

That still leaves the central question. At as much as $1,799, do you want an exceptionally well-executed interpretation of another company's design, or one of the many original watches available for the same money? There is no correct answer - just feel your feelings.

The Ginault case is strongest if the buyer specifically prefers five-digit Submariner proportions and hands, and does not regard the Rolex name as essential. In that context, its dimensions and execution are not incidental. They are the reason for buying it. If the actual aspiration remains to own a Rolex, however, spending four figures on a substitute deserves more thought than spending £100 on one.

What owners and reviewers say: The Ocean-Rover II receives unusually strong praise for a homage at this price, particularly for case finishing, bracelet quality, comfort and the execution of its ceramic bezel. Owners familiar with high-end replicas and more expensive Swiss watches regularly describe the bracelet and overall fit and finish as exceptional, while professional reviews similarly emphasise the level of detail and construction rather than simply the specification sheet. The obvious objection is price: even admirers acknowledge that $1,500-plus is a considerable amount to spend on a deliberately Submariner-derived watch. The divide is therefore less about whether Ginault makes the Ocean-Rover well and more about whether premium execution justifies premium-homage money.

The Submariner DNA Scale

This isn't a scientific measurement. It is an editorial judgement based on how closely the watch's overall case architecture, bezel, dial, handset and bracelet evoke a Rolex Submariner.

Watch	Submariner DNA	Original identity	Approx. price	Main reason to consider it
Rolex Submariner 126610LN	10/10	The source	£9,500	The original
Pagani Design PD-1661	9.5/10	Low	£102	Very cheap automatic
San Martin SN017-G-V3	9.5/10	Low	£130	Better finishing/specification
Watchdives WD1680 V2	9.5/10	Low	£131	Slim 10mm case
Sugess Seaman	9.5/10	Low	£176	4Hz movement and strong spec
Cronos L6005	9.5/10	Low	£168	PT5000 and familiar proportions
Addiesdive MY-H3-C	9/10	Low	£43	Cheapest route; quartz practicality
Invicta 8926OB	9/10	Low-medium	£132 official / often less	Long-established budget option
Davosa Ternos Diver	9/10	Medium	£944	Swiss-made premium execution
Ginault Ocean-Rover II	9/10	Medium	£1,097+	Five-digit proportions and premium build
Steinhart Ocean One 39 Nova	8/10	Medium	£635	Compact dimensions

The scale also illustrates why “homage” is not an especially precise category. Pagani is reproducing a highly recognisable existing design at very low cost. Ginault is deliberately recreating the proportions and architectural character of an earlier generation of Submariner at a much higher level of execution.

Homage, inspired by, replica and counterfeit: what is the difference?

Watch discussions become unnecessarily confused when all four terms are treated as interchangeable. They aren't.

Homage

A homage deliberately reproduces substantial elements of another watch's design but carries its own manufacturer's branding. The Pagani PD-1661 and Watchdives WD5512 are straightforward examples. Nobody buying either should reasonably believe it was manufactured by Rolex.

Inspired by

An inspired watch takes some design cues without attempting to recreate the overall object. This is a much broader category. A black dive watch with circular lume plots and a steel bracelet may show some Submariner influence while still having its own handset, case, bezel typography and design identity. There is no sensible reason to call every conventionally designed dive watch a Submariner homage.

Replica, Fake or counterfeit

A counterfeit is fundamentally different because it uses Rolex branding, trademarks or other identifiers in an attempt to represent itself as a Rolex. That distinction matters. A San Martin with “San Martin” on the dial may be highly derivative, but it is not pretending to have been made by Rolex.

Rolex Submariner

The problems with Submariner homages

The advantages are real. So are the weaknesses.

You may always see the Rolex

Some homage watches become their own objects once they are on the wrist. Others never do. If every glance at your watch produces the thought “this is the one that looks like a Submariner”, technical specification becomes rather less important.

Originality is part of what you buy in a watch

Watch collecting isn't entirely rational. If it were, a reliable quartz watch would end most discussions. Part of the appeal is the design, history and personality attached to an object. A direct homage intentionally gives up some of that originality in exchange for familiarity and value. How much that matters is personal, but pretending it does not matter at all misses a large part of why people collect watches.

Quality control and aftersales vary

Chinese watch manufacturing can now produce excellent cases, dials, bracelets and finishing for remarkably little money. That does not mean every £150 watch leaves the factory perfect. Bezel alignment, dust, movement regulation, clasp quality, bracelet tolerances and lume application can vary. Returns can also be more cumbersome when purchasing directly from an overseas seller. Seller reputation and returns policy matter.

The expensive ones face a harder argument

This is the biggest issue. At £60, originality can reasonably be sacrificed in the pursuit of a functional watch. At £1,200, the world is full of genuinely interesting watches with their own design language. The better and more expensive a homage becomes, the stronger its reason for existing needs to be.

How much should you spend on a Submariner homage?

There is no fixed ceiling, but the character of the purchase changes as prices rise.

Under £100: easy to understand

Addiesdive and discounted Invicta territory.

You are buying a useful watch in a proven shape. There is relatively little money at risk and very little need to construct a grand philosophy around the purchase.

£100–£300: the value sweet spot

This is where Pagani, San Martin, Watchdives, Cronos and Sugess compete.

Sapphire, ceramic bezels, automatic movements and decent bracelets are now normal.

This is arguably the strongest part of the homage market because the watches can be objectively good while remaining inexpensive enough that the borrowed design is easier to accept.

£500–£1,000: originality becomes part of the comparison

You are no longer restricted to inexpensive mass-market watches. Plenty of microbrands, Japanese manufacturers and Swiss brands offer distinctive designs around these prices.

A homage therefore needs another advantage.

For the Steinhart it may be compact dimensions.

£1,000+: you should know exactly why you're buying it

Ginault illustrates this best.

A $1,500-plus homage can be beautifully made. There is no contradiction there.

But specification alone is no longer sufficient justification.

At this point you should actively prefer the design, dimensions and execution to the original alternatives available for the same money.

If what you actually want is a Rolex Submariner, buying increasingly expensive approximations may simply delay the purchase.

Which Rolex Submariner homage should you buy?

Best cheap Submariner homage: Addiesdive MY-H3-C

The Miyota quartz movement may disappoint someone specifically looking for a mechanical watch, but at around $59 the MY-H3-C makes a strong argument as a cheap, low-maintenance way into the design. It also gives you 200 metres of claimed water resistance and conventional 41mm by 48mm dimensions.

Best budget automatic: Pagani Design PD-1661

The current PD-1661 combines a mechanical movement, sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel for around $140. There are obvious compromises, but very little room left beneath it on price.

Best value all-rounder: Watchdives WD5512 V2

The 11.8mm thickness is the deciding factor. There are several Chinese homages with broadly comparable materials, but reducing the case height materially changes how a watch feels on the wrist. At $179, that makes the WD5512 particularly interesting.

Best alternative Chinese execution: Sugess Seaman

The ST2130's 4Hz beat rate, 12.5mm case and familiar dimensions give the Sugess a strong mechanical specification. Its visual relationship with the Submariner is also among the most direct, so this is very much for buyers comfortable with the concept of a homage.

Best compact Swiss option: Steinhart Ocean One 39 Nova Black

The 39mm diameter and 46.78mm lug-to-lug are the selling point. There are less expensive ways to get Submariner styling and there are more original ways to spend €740. Few, however, combine this design with such compact dimensions and a Sellita SW200-1.

Best premium homage: Ginault Ocean-Rover II

The Ginault is expensive, but it is not expensive accidentally. Its 11.5mm thickness, five-digit-style case architecture, hand finishing and regulated Sellita movement show what happens when the homage concept is taken seriously rather than simply cheaply. Whether that is worth $1,499-$1,799 is entirely dependent on whether you want the design or the Rolex.

The question to ask before buying any homage

There's a simple test.

If the Rolex name disappeared tomorrow, would you still want this design?

If the answer is yes, a good homage can make complete sense. You may prefer the dimensions. You may not want thousands of pounds attached to your wrist. You may simply regard the Submariner as a very good piece of tool watch/industrial design rather than an object of status. In that case, there is nothing particularly mysterious about buying something such as a San Martin, Watchdives, or Steinhart.

If the answer is no, the calculation changes. If what you really want is the Rolex name, Rolex history and Rolex ownership experience, a homage cannot provide those things regardless of how close the dimensions become or how well the bezel clicks. That is where repeatedly upgrading from a £100 homage to a £250 homage and then to a £1,500 homage can become false economy.

The watches become better. But not Rolex better.

If you still want to hunt for a deal on a Submariner - check out the pre-owned watch buying guide.

San Martin Submariner homage
Pagani Submariner homage
Steinhart Submariner homage

So, are Rolex Submariner homages worth buying?

Some absolutely are. There is a vast trench of unseen variables sitting between a Chinese Seaman and an American Ocean Rover. The strongest argument exists in China, at the inexpensive end of the market. That is, after all what a homage is meant to be. It's difficult to object too strongly to a £50-£200 watch that provides a reliable movement, solid water resistance and decent materials while using one of the most successful watch designs ever created. Especially when consensus and on-wrist reviews are strong.

The middle becomes more complicated. Steinhart makes a strong case by offering smaller dimensions - providing more than a generic logo on a familiar dial. Davosa is harder to justify purely on value because approaching £1,000 opens up an enormous number of original designs. Ginault is harder still, but also more interesting. It deliberately addresses enthusiasts who want the proportions and visual character of pre-ceramic Submariners without buying the Rolex itself. A hell of a niche to aim for, so Kudos for that, and nailing it really - people buy their watches and they love them.

Ultimately, the best homage is not necessarily the one that gets closest to a Submariner.

It's the one that gives you pleasure on the wrist, even if that means a little Chinese Seaman on there... I will milk that joke as long as the Seaman is in production. I suppose it's the winner for me, though I can't see the Seaman on my wrist, there are many who are very happy to see it there. Anyway, if none of the others quite scratches the itch, then you'll just have to keep saving for the real deal.

Your's Submarinatingly,

Alvin

LINKS & THINGS.

A note on prices: prices were checked on 20 August 2026. Where a manufacturer does not publish a UK price, GBP figures are approximate conversions. At the time of checking, sterling was trading at about $1.3661 and €1 was approximately £0.8578. VAT, import charges, promotions and regional pricing can materially change the final amount.

A note on images: the links go to official brand product galleries wherever possible.

ROLEX

https://www.rolex.com/en-gb/watches/submariner

ADDIESDIVE

Addiesdive MY-H3-C official product gallery

PAGANI

Pagani Design PD-1661 official product gallery

INVICTA

Invicta Pro Diver 8926OB official product gallery

SAN MARTIN

San Martin SN017-G-V3 official product gallery

CRONOS