Are Chinese Watches Any Good? I Own 10 - Here’s Why They’re Worth Buying
- Alvin
- 3 days ago
- 11 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
It would have been 11 but one had a quality issue, that was in early 2022, ancient history or asian history if you prefer, cos it was a Chinese wat...
Anyway, I thought I'd get that out of the way because it's the only quality issue and proper personal fail I've had with Chinese watches, that's it. That is all. It's a shame because it was a beauty, the Sugess Tourbillion with enamel dial, however, it wouldn't fit me these days, so pro's and con's. On that note, if there was a 38mm version, I would give that a go right now! I was brave. I moved on. And now that is out of the way, we can move on to the good stuff!
Yes, many Chinese watches are now genuinely good, especially for value, variety and mechanical interest. Brands such as Sugess, Proxima, San Martin, Merkur, Sea-Gull, Baltany, Addiesdive, Steeldive and Escapement Time offer (very) affordable alternatives to mainstream Swiss and Japanese watches. The main risks are inconsistent quality control, weaker after-sales support, homage-heavy design and more hassle with returns. But I don't think it's as bad as you think it is...
In addition, after looking into the Rolex Explorer alternatives, I thought this would be a good time to pick up this conversation - that post (best Chinese alternatives to the Rolex Explorer) gives some good arguments and a few, very cool alternatives, some straight homage, some with a twist.
And following on, it's been a while since I gave the Chinese watch niche a bit love. I thought you people of watches out there might have got the message already, but it appears you are still unsure, hemming and hawwing about this, that and the other. What about the quality? What will the other people think? What about the children who make them...? The point here is that none of these points are of concern for the main part (disclaimer - I know nothing of the world and its ways). There is part of me that feels this is flogging a dead horse, but there will always be new watches fans, so I guess this will always be a question.
GIVE ME A CHANCE - Are Chinese Watches Worth Considering?
The point, maybe, isn't immediately that they deserve a place, but that they deserve a chance. I took a chance when I bought my first in 2020 (Sugess Moonphase), during the pandem(ic)onium, the bad times, but when a watch-fan buys a Chinese watch today, they aren't taking the same chance. Back then, it wasn't really that long ago, but there was less choice and more chance of a fail. Now, there is more choice but the information available, reviews and feedback, is exponential. You can find lots of owner information in forums, on socials - but I like Watch Crunch as a reliable source - lots of differing views and opinions.
Anyway, I do have ten Chinese made watches. That is, those that are openly Chinese, who knows how many secret Chinese babies are out there, some claim Tudor and Rolex are part Chinese! How very dare you!!
These are the Chinese brands I own, Sugess (moonphase, panda 40mm, panda 38mm, Lobinni (big boi, micro-rotor), Aesop (Tourbillon), Merkur (jump hour), Proxima, Escapement Time Tank and Maison Celadon Imperial Plum - below from top left to right.
Watchfans are scared of the Chinese watch, those who know less likely enjoy more - ignorance is indeed bliss. There are knowns, and then there are 'known unknowns' and there are also 'unknown unknowns', and apparently it is known by me (and many, many humans) that there are Chinese watches that are pretty alright, pretty much all of the time.
Here is what;
I know - Chinese watches have proven to be as reliable, enjoyable and better value than all watches apart from Casio and Seiko. Of course, we tend to use the umbrella term 'Chinese' instead of Chinese brands. I could replace the first instance, with Proxima/Sugess/Maison Celadon. Most your 'Swiss' watches have some Chinese in 'em!
I know I don't know - which Chinese brands will do right by you. But this is the same for Swiss brands - by the way some Rolex watch-fans go on, they would rather have a Sugess than a Tudor. And also, I dunno if your watch will malfunction and ruin my whole vibe.
I don't know I don't know - nothing, all the double negatives I can muster. Basically, I can't answer that can I?
I've noted some reasons below, I don't think I need to write essay under each one, it's self-explanatory for those open to the prospect. Others will forever have a stick stuck somewhere and won't budge.
REAL TALK - Why Chinese Watches Offer Such Good Value.
All these hypotheticals assume the buyer is not the one watch guy mentioned above.
Chinese Watches Offer Great Value because...
On the general side of things, the Chinese watch industry has served the world of watches for decades, making every component you can think of, many for the Swiss watch industry - they are flush with experience. They have copied Swiss movements with permission (Sea-Gull etc) and without - they can make Rolexes that are almost as good as a Rolex for goodness sake. With all this expertise and infrastructure you get the best of capitalism - competition. And with that, you get prices that are fighting for your attention and quality that speaks for itself - but the watch fans will back it up. Any Chinese brand that survives for, let's say 2/3 years, is going to be solid.
Being specific, let's say you're after a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 116000, Crown-3-6-9. You know the one, I may have mentioned it before. You need time to save up (let's say two years), but you can't go that long without a new watch - heaven forbid. Have a browse on Aliexpress...5 hours, and £120 later you have a new watch without making a serious dent in your piggy bank. And so, happy days...
They Let You Experiment With Styles
In line with the value you have variety, you want a Cartier Tank or 34mm watch but you're not sure if it will suit you. You definitely don't want to buy a fake so you find a couple of quality pieces that will let you test the water for minimal outlay. Weeks later, you decide to buy that vintage or Cartier Paris Collection Prive piece. Or you don't cos you're happy to run the Chinese piece, for now...
They Let You Expand Your Horological Horizons
That same outlook will let you think outside of the box and give your collection the kind of complication or design you might not of considered or could never afford from certain Swiss, Japanese or German brands. A jump-hour, a micro-rotor, an enamel dial, a tourbillon or even a minute-repeater/mechanical chime. The possibilities are endless, I saw a triple tourbillon, yes triple. It was the ugliest thing I've seen in a while, and on Aliexpress, that's saying something. But someone might love it, it's down to individual taste and there are flavours galore. Take your pick, and expand your palate...
There is Huge Choice on Aliexpress and Beyond
In any category or colour or copycatting, there is a lot of choice. Whether it's low-key cool, original Chinese inspired design, homage, cheap, kooky nonsense, complicated, simple, or ugly as sin, Aliexpress is your oyster. In fact, there are so many homages available it is unlikely that many of them would be recognisable to anyone but the most avid of watch fans. You, are free to, do you.
Myriad Owner Reviews Make Buying Less Risky
If your scepticism is based on reliability and quality, then looking at the reviews should provide the requisite comfort - as it has for many others over the years. You only have to read this blog, go on YouTube, Watch Crunch or check the thousands of reviews on Aliexpress to see that you will likely be ok. I liken Aliexpress to a kind of opium den of watch shopping sites, yes, that's a historically accurate, mildly clever, and slightly offensive reference to the good ol' smokey days of Empire.
NO CHANCE MATE - Common Concerns About Chinese Watches.
These arguments seem well out of date considering the above comments. But to be fair, there are some legit concerns.
Snobbery - the argument here is that Chinese made = poor quality, or that Chinese made isn't as good by a certain metric - the only valid one now is brand history and heritage - but that's a preference. The other main one is quality control, it was an issue and still can be. But now, if these Chinese makers want to make sales, the quality needs to be on point - so it is. If you think made in China is not for you, I suggest you have a look around at the things you own and then reevaluate your position. If you have further doubts, check out Sea-Gull, Peacock, Maison Celadon, Ming and Atelier Wen, and realise that these are brands proper, making exceptional watches in China. They are good at marketing and make money. Also, their parts are likely made adjacent to those many Aliexpress brands, another tick for Aliexpress. If you want to disguise your snobbery as the blanket statement, "I just like the heritage and prestige of the Swiss watch industry", then that is an acceptable argument for your preference, not for putting down Chinese made watches.
It's kinda like not liking ice cream because you don't like winter...
Homages suck - fair point, I get that - they are copies, lacking in imagination, prestige or historical value, a far cry from the watches they copy. But homages serve a purpose as mentioned above (value/variety/vicissitude). I think it is more important to recognise that homages are a just a particular kind of Chinese watch. The dominant niche maybe but not all Chinese watches are homages. It's kinda like not liking ice cream because you don't like winter...
Maintenance - there is no issue for the majority of pieces, the movements are inspired by or inline with modern Swiss movements, while you might not get a warranty proper, you won't likely need any maintenance for a good while. I have Chinese watches that are 6 years old and running just fine. I have a 3 year old Aesop tourbillon that is bang on. Though that is where the issue is, for complicated watches you have no ongoing support - and this is a fair point. However, my argument is that if you can buy a £250/$350 tourbillon, and it lasts a few years - then you've done alright,
Scams/Returns - this is something you have to beware of, but it's the same buying anything. I can speak to my experience, and the reviews on Aliexpress. I had an issue with
the Sugess tourbillon, they asked me to do a few things - to time it, send them a video and then were happy to issue a refund - no drama. If you want a micro-rotor, tourbillon or enamel dial on a deal, then you risk some quality issues but it's a low risk, high reward situation. Check the store reviews, return policy and item reviews. You can often find the same item in different Aliexpress stores, so shop around.
WHAT'S IN A NAME - Best Chinese Watch Brands to Consider.
If you've seen any of my older posts about Chinese watches, you may know that I am not entirely impressed with the names some of these 'brands' take on. Yea, brands isn't the right word for most of these watch-making companies. Some just slap a random nonsense-word on - ADDIESDIVE, PINDU, TANDORIO, OBLVLO, FARASUTE (great homages), others make a feeble attempt - WATCHDIVES, ESCAPEMENT TIME, LOBINNI - and some go too hard, like HEROFORCE and POEDAGAR (nevermore...). Others, get it just right - PROXIMA, MILITADO, BALTANY and MERKUR - with watches to match.
While, some the names are a bit off, the 'brands' below are those I would say aren't too bad at all. Many of these brands use the same base models with different branding or slight design/colour variations, like Seestern and Sugess. I've said it before, but it wouldn't surprise me if they were all made in the same factory...
Category | Brands | Best for |
Entry-level AliExpress | Pagani Design, Addiesdive, Steeldive, Militado, Escapement Time | Cheap daily watches, homages, first experiments |
Better AliExpress brands | Baltany, Watchdives, Thorn, Seestern, Aesop, Boderry | Vintage-inspired designs, divers, field watches, complications, homages |
Stronger enthusiast picks | San Martin, Proxima, Sugess, Merkur, Sea-Gull | Better finishing, more original designs, mechanical value |
Higher-end Chinese watchmaking...described fairly as Chinese Avant-Garde. | Atelier Wen - Maison Celadon - CIGA Design - Ming - Peacock - | Stunning dials. Enamel dials Crazy complications . Innovation and Style. Terrible name, great watches. |
This is just something I always have to mention because I'm a grumpy old geezer. Back in the day I was I bit more annoyed and I wrote a piece about it (Chinese watches - name brands and brand names). For me, a silly name makes the watch unwearable. I have a Western example too - I was so glad when Christopher Ward took their name off the dial, so boring and unexciting, not exotic - also long, which was probably the reason they replaced it with the logo. Anyway, there are also successful, lauded non-Chinese brands like Baltic and Studio Underd0g who started off using (and still do) various Chinese movements (Sea-Gull ST series and Hangzhou micro-rotor). Sure they give them a do-over and quality check them, but this is sign of the times - these movements are solid and offer superb value for money.
IS THIS THE END
Of your prejudice? I hope it's helped those who were on the fence - the fence is ready to collapse there are so many people on it - so jump off! For those who are considering it but have concerns, go forth with caution, and those who were just wrong - I forgive you. I've cleared up my feelings about the whole thing. It's in line with my earlier posts about Chinese watches (Chinese Watches - I Sugess you pay attention), it's all good if you do it sensibly.
While I'm waxxing lyrical over here, it is important to take these watches for what they are. For discerning watch fans, they might not have the best quality or finishing, but for those brands mentioned and many others, it certainly shouldn't be bad. These aren't to be compared with Swiss brands, this is not the way to look at it. There will always be haters, but I am amongst the majority who will, in some way or the other, say that many Chinese watches are second to few for value, quality and accessibility. And, there will always be new watch fans or those expanding their horological horizons. For those who are considering it, I sugess you go for it - suck it an see - it's extremely unlikely you will regret it. The haters can kiss my casebackside.
Thanks for stopping by.
Yours Sinoffingly,
Alvin.
FAQ
Are Chinese watches any good?
Yes, many Chinese watches are now very good for the money. The best examples offer solid mechanical movements, attractive finishing and strong value, although quality control and after-sales support can vary.
What are the best Chinese watch brands?
Some of the strongest Chinese watch brands and makers include Sea-Gull, San Martin, Proxima, Sugess, Merkur, Baltany, Atelier Wen, Maison Celadon, CIGA Design and Peacock.
Are AliExpress watches worth buying?
AliExpress watches can be worth buying if you check store ratings, customer reviews, return policies and real owner photos. They are best for affordable experimentation rather than prestige or long-term servicing confidence.
Are Chinese homage watches bad?
Not necessarily. Some collectors dislike homage watches because they copy famous designs, but they can be useful if you want to test a style before spending much more money.
Can Chinese watches be serviced?
Simple Chinese watches using common automatic or hand-wound movements are usually easy to maintain. More complicated watches, such as very cheap tourbillons or unusual micro-rotors, may be harder to service economically but it is entirely possible.
LINKS & THINGS
PEACOCK WATCHES
ATELIER WEN
MAISON CELADON
ALIEXPRESS STORES
WEBSITES
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