Best Chinese Alternatives to the Rolex Explorer.
- Alvin
- 2 hours ago
- 12 min read
Is this a bit random? Yes, but I used to be extremely enthusiastic about sharing my Chinese watch picks so it's not completely out of character. Actually one of the watches I've worn most this year is a Rolex Explorer alternative. We won't use the 'h' word, not right now, because the Proxima has a white dial, it's the polar Explorer original then my dudes, cos Rolex don't do a polar Explorer. Boom! Get it right!
In a list of the facts of the world, there is an entry that states, 'there are few watches as well loved as the Rolex Explorer' and it's a true fact. It's got them legit credentials as an explorers watch. The Rolex Explorer is a proper legend, from those days, way back when Rolex was less shiny and sparkly. It has its roots in the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition, when Rolex supplied watches to members of the team and later connected the model’s mythology to the successful summit by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
The Explorer name became the standard for rugged, legible, no-nonsense tool watch. It's a classic. A legend. These days though, if you're dropping £6,600 on a watch (pre-owned around £4000/$4000), you've got a lotta options. What you've also got, is a lot of reasons not to spend that much - here and now - I'll give you just 6 of those reasons. It was and remains one of Rolex’s cleanest designs: a steel Oyster case, time-only dial, and the now-famous 3-6-9 layout.
Actually these days, in Singapore, Hong Kong and thereabouts, it's simply known as the 3-6-9 (I think I heard that somewhere). Over the decades it became less a watch for actual mountaineers and more a symbol of quiet capability, the king of low-key flexing while you go anywhere and do anything. I wouldn't buy one though, cos I want 'Crown-3-6-9', like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref 11600 - I must mention it in every post - I will manifest it into the box.
And just for them there records, the all steel one 36mm ref 124270 is the boss. The yellow gold and steel version ref 124273 is just a bit weird. This kind of watch doesn't need gold to flex, especially when it bumps the price up to £11,900 - yikes.
...we need to lean into the ability of Chinese watches to do the same, to accept that they too can be rock solid.
THE PARAMETERS
The problem, obviously, is that - the Rolex Explorer now exists in that strange luxury watch zone where a “simple steel watch” costs roughly the same as a very sensible used car. There are so many options at that price. But what if you don't want to spend a small fortune? Then, my friend, just look to open the small fortune cookie, that is, Aliexpress. The Chinese brands spotted this a while ago and have been cashing in, but they've been delivering all along.
What does it take to fit into this 'best alternative' category, it's simple, homage rules. Ah there's that 'h' word. It's gotta be a Chinese creation, with an automatic movement, plain 3-6-9 dial, steel case and bracelet, mercedes hands, an upside down triangle at 12 o'clock and not be £5,000 or $5000. Simple. It's known as the go to premium GADA, that is Go Anwhere, Do Anything watch. Go to the bakery to grab some donuts, to a dinner with the President, or up a mountain to get altitude sickness - no matter how far up you go, this watch will not let you down. So, now we need to lean into the ability of Chinese watches to do the same, to accept that they too can be rock solid.
Let's get the name thing out of the way too. I have a problem with some Chinese brands because all they are is homage factories, and they give themselves silly names that don't mean anything to anyone (we only have one on the list today).
So here we go, I've had a good look around and gathered some common thoughts and opinions, given my honest thoughts and feelings, as I always do. These are Explorer-style alternatives: watches that borrow the 3-6-9 field-watch formula and deliver a similar everyday feel for much less money. The sweet spots today is 36mm, we're leaning in to the THE DOWNSIZING, as I've been calling it. We'll have a 40mm in the mix for those who prefer. Disclaimers; I used an artificial idiot to pull the reviews info, and we have a few affiliate links sprinkled around, use them and enjoy your new watch, so I can get me a new watch too. Thanks in advance.
Quick Picks
Pick | Size | Best for |
Proxima PX1690 | 37mm | Me. Best overall - discontinued. |
San Martin SN021/SN020 | 36/39mm | Best overall finishing |
Baltany S4056 | 36mm | Best vintage Explorer feel |
Cronos L6042M | 36mm | Best named option |
Addiesdive AD2023 | 36/37mm | Best budget pick |
Pagani Design PD-1692 | 40/41mm | Best larger, cheaper |
Proxima PX1690
Let's start with the fact that you might not be able to get one of these, but seeing as it's the one I own and thoroughly enjoy, you must hear about it. If nothing else, it gives me the chance to applaud Proxima. It's my first and only, but it's left a great impression. I took the Proxima with me on a 3 week trip to India - Goa, Rajasthan, Delhi - Sea, Dessert, City. It was salty, sweaty and hectic. I wore it pretty much the whole time despite taking 7 watches with me. It's a GADA, confirmed, I'll be hitting the Himalayan foothills next time, you better believe it.
I didn't charge the lume properly.
Of course, the spin here is the polar dial, it's all the other marks and rolls in at a clean 37mm - it looks bigger tbh but fits the skinny wrist well. It's a winner for me, I wanted to try the 3-6-9 dial and it delivered the experience and then some. While it doesn't have the numeral pop of the black dial, it's still a nice year round GADA.
Proxima do some great watches, many none homages, and some crazy nice dials - the aventurine dial, 39mm PX1746 is a lovely piece. They also have a sister brand called Omnion, but it looks like Orunion on the dial, which is a shame. The Proxima PX1960 is a winner, and I recommend it throughly. Full review coming soon.
Best for: finishing, reliability, not looking like exactly like an Explorer
Size: 37mm
Lug to Lug: 45.5mm
Movement options: PT5000 / SW200 depending on version
Typical price: I paid £135 for the PT5000 / $183. It'll be more if you find one.
San Martin SN021 (36mm) / SN020-G2 (39mm)
San Martin is probably the least surprising brand on this list. In the Chinese watch world, it's become the brand people recommend when they refer to decent homage watches.
The SN021 is their 36mm Explorer-style watch, and it hits the formula very cleanly: black dial, 3-6-9 numerals, compact steel case, bracelet, sapphire crystal, and enough finishing to make you look suspiciously at mainstream watches costing two or three or ten times more. San Martin’s own write-up says the 36mm SN021-G was made after feedback from enthusiasts who wanted a smaller version of its earlier 39mm Explorer-style model (ref SN021). The brand specifically pitches it as better suited to customers who wanted the classic compact size (San Martin Watch).
The 36mm SN021-G is Sold Out // img: San Martin
Online feedback is broadly positive. Ben’s Watch Club says San Martin offers some of the most impressive build quality for the money, while also noting the obvious caveat: much of the brand’s catalogue is homage-based rather than original. (Ben's Watch Club) A Reddit discussion on the SN021 describes it as slim, well-finished for the price, and attractive in enamel-dial versions, though some users are less enthusiastic about the PT5000 movement’s winding feel. (Reddit). The numerals aren't entirely aligned with the original Explorer numeral but they look good (below 39mm).
The bottom line for me is that I don't love the San Martin, the numerals aren't true to the original, which is fine but I think they're a bit small. Also, as a company, they are straight homager's, and at a price that you can buy a decent Seiko. Seems a bit wrong to say that, but there are levels to this game and angles to consider. No doubt, this is an undeniably popular brand, it's 'expensive' Chinese, but consensus is that it's worth the money. In terms of case finishing, bracelet feel and general solidity, this is probably the safest recommendation I've seen out there in the horolosphere. At both 36mm (SN021) and 39mm (SN020) it's a winner, but they are getting harder to find - says it all really.
Best for: finishing, bracelet quality, smaller wrists
Size: 36mm / 39mm
Lug to Lug: 45.5mm
Movement options: PT5000 / SW200 depending on version
Typical price: often around £200 – £400 depending on model, seller and sales.
Link: 39mm tiffany blue dial https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4EIBYuV
Baltany S4056
I've been look and hearing about Baltany for a long time, they are also at the top of Chinese/homage watches likely to be recommended. They've has taken a slightly different approach, leaning into vintage charm (they've just released a pie-pan - says it all iykyk). Domed sapphire with warm lume at 36, and why not a chocolate-brown dial option alongside black. The S4056 is listed as a 36mm Explorer-style watch with 43.5mm lug-to-lug, 12.2mm thickness including the glass, domed sapphire crystal with AR coating, screw-down crown, 200m water resistance and a choice of ST2130 or SW200 movements.
A quick word on the name, apparently it isn't a nonsense word - sigh of relief - it is a mix of two names, Ballu & Tanner who "have focused on watchmaking for many years, primarily working behind the scenes for micro-brands." True or not, I have no reason to doubt it, I like it.
The feedback is strong too. Baltany’s own product page shows a 4.9 overall rating from 15 reviews for the S4056, with buyers praising the 36mm size, packaging, and resemblance to vintage Explorer references. (baltany.com) The S4066 page shows a 5.0 overall rating from 9 reviews, with comments praising the matte dial, lume and domed sapphire crystal. (baltany.com). Their branding is good, and they come across like a proper brand. Actually, on Aliexpress, the prices were high, their website was better - might be movement related, as they offer Sellita SW200 or Seagull ST2130 - can't go wrong with Sea-Gull hardware.
A Reddit review of the Baltany S4056 praised the bracelet comfort, screw links and that one was a no-date NH38 movement which I didn't see available. while noting that close-up macro finishing on the hands and indices was not perfect. (Reddit) Another Reddit thread on the 36mm Baltany Explorer described it as a strong addition to the crowded 36mm Explorer market, particularly praising the crystal, dimensions, dial and lume. (Reddit).
Personally, I think these are great options if you want that old school vibe and can find a good deal. The photos are great, and from what I've seen they look just as good in the hand or on the wrist. Oh, they also do the gold and steel version, if you're into that kind of thing...
Best for: vintage looks, domed crystal, warm lume
Case Size: 36mm
Lug to Lug: 43.5mm
Movement options: ST2130 or SW200 depending on version
Typical price: around £230 / $220 - more fore SW200
Cronos 36mm L6042M
Cronos sits in an interesting place, firstly, I'd never heard of it prior to this search. It's also the most obvious but welcome and acceptable name- Go Cronos! It seems to be well known for its Rolex homages.
The 36mm Cronos Explorer-style model is worth considering if you want something a little more left of field but proven. A recent Reddit review of the Cronos L6042M praised the fit, dial, case, thin feel and strong hand lume, while noting that the Miyota rotor could be noisy. The reviewer summarised it very simply: they liked it “a LOT.” (Reddit) - a person after my own 'Lloyd Christmas' heart - if that's what they meant.
That Miyota 90-series option is a nice one to have, especially if the outside is up to scratch. A high-beat movement gives a smoother sweep than the more common Seiko NH35/NH38 family. Does this make your life materially better? Yes. Haha, if it's less noisy than actually it does, so there!
The Cronos is the one for the kinda person who already knows what Miyota is, or what a PT5000 is, has opinions on male end links, has many badges on Watch Crunch, and has used the phrase “on-the-fly micro-adjust” in normal conversation. Classic.
It may not be the easiest one to recommend to a total beginner, mainly because availability and versions can be a bit messy. I think it's definitely worth a look, and all the better if you like researching and hunting a bit, you should be able to find what you want. Cronos belongs on the shortlist.
Best for: high-beat movement, cleaner enthusiast spec
Case Size: 36mm
Lug to lug: 43.4mm
Movement options: Miyota 90S5 / PT5000 depending on version and seller
Typical price: £200 - £300 depending for both Miyota / PT5000
Link Miyota 39mm: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3nAS0sN
Link PT5000 36mm: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3AkSGUV
Addiesdive AD2112
Apparently there once existed the Addiesdive AD2023, it was the 36mm bargain Chinese Explorer alternative. Now, we have the AD2112, it is the cheapest watch here and while it seems to be on the money, but it's 38mm and I can't say I like the name. It's got dive in it but it makes non-dive watches, my simple mind doesn't like such incongruity. Other than that, like its sibling, it seems to be the best budget option.
Unlike the AD2023, which used the smooth-sweeping Seiko VH31 quartz movement, the AD2112 goes automatic with the reliable Seiko NH35. That means it is thicker, a bit heavier, but still a favourite. Addiesdive lists it as a 38mm watch with a 13.5mm case thickness, 20mm lug width, screw-down crown, screw-down caseback and 100m water resistance, so it lands between the vintage 36mm Explorer look and the larger 39/40mm alternatives.
Online feedback is encouraging too. A Reddit owner described it as a larger Explorer I homage with an NH35 movement, deep glossy black dial and applied markers, calling it “a no brainer” at around $60 delivered (you wish it was still that cheap), though they wished the 3-6-9 numerals were slightly larger (Reddit). A WatchUSeek owner also praised the double-domed crystal, saying it was very close to San Martin quality (Watchuseek). More recently, Timed Reviews described the AD2112 as delivering more than expected for the money, highlighting the stainless-steel construction, NH35 movement, sapphire crystal and 100m water resistance (timedreviews.com)
The AD2023 is cheap, practical and charming. It gives you the Explorer-ish look, an automatic movement, decent water resistance, and enough positive owner feedback to bring comfort - even if it is a bit chunky. The logo will divide people, and the bracelet will not make you 'damn the Swiss', but as a daily beater it makes a very strong case for itself.
Best for: budget buyers, medium wrists
Case Size: 38mm
Lug to Lug: 47.8mm
Movement: Seiko NH35 auto.
Typical price: around £123
Pagani Design PD-1692
The Pagani Design PD-1692 is the pick if you want something closer to a modern 40mm Explorer or Air-King-adjacent vibe rather than a vintage 36mm Explorer.
It is not subtle but it is cheap. The case is larger, the dial has more visual punch, and the whole thing feels more like a budget sports watch than a restrained vintage field/mountain watch. Pagani Design are the kings of homaging, they even homage mountains...
A recent review measured it at roughly 41mm with 11.5mm thickness and a long effective 51.6mm lug-to-lug due to male end links (bracelet link between the lugs). The same review notes a stainless-steel case, synthetic sapphire crystal, Seiko NH35 automatic movement, screw links, milled clasp and improved lume, while also making clear that it is still a budget watch (timedreviews.com). There is also older YouTube coverage of the PD-1692, including a full review by Escape Wheel Watch Reviews, which covered price, dimensions, case finishing, crystal, dial, lume, movement and bracelet. (YouTube).
While this is the chunkiest piece on the list, it might be the best value proposition for the right wrist. It's £97 at time of writing. The problem for me is the name, Pagani, that's a car damn it, and they are homage monsters more than a brand. It's not one for members of the skinny wrist society, similar to the 'real' explorer it has male end links (between the lugs), see above. The middle section of the end link drops lowers than the lugs, this is known as a male end link, cos it's a long thing between its lugs...baboom, I'm here all week.
Best for: larger wrists, lowest-cost automatic option
Case Size: around 40/41mm
Lug to Lug: 51.6mm
Movement: Seiko NH35 automatic
Typical price: often around £80–£100
36mm vs 40mm: Which Explorer Alternative Should You Buy?
For me, the Explorer design works best at 36mm/37mm- that's the skinny wrist talking. It's a versatile little beauty, but I can see why the 39mm or 40mm would work better for some - if you have a larger wrist, or prefer modern sizing/find vintage proportions not quite right. But as the dial isn't so busy, it sits nicely in the smaller shell. A 36mm Explorer-style watch feels compact, balanced and charming. It's alarming how charming it feels...
The End of Exploring
The best Chinese alternative to the Rolex Explorer is not the one that most convincingly pretends to be a Rolex. I think the best one is the watch that gives you what you want, if that's the best 3-6-9 for your buck or the most vintage feel - that's it. Erm, you have to find the explorer in you, to find the spirit of the right explorer. I wouldn't be surprised if these are all made in the same factory by the same company...
...and remember it's your wrist, you're not here to live up to some strangers expectations.
Would I rather have a Rolex Explorer? No, I wouldn't. What I would rather have is a Paris penthouse and knees that don't make a noise when I stand up. The Proxima is a perfect approximation for me, if I love a pricey watch I'll find a way to buy it. But if I just like it, then why not homage it. Makes sense to me, and remember it's your wrist, you're not here to live up to some strangers expectations.
I'd love to see all these in the flesh, old me would have just bought some of them, but downsizing me, is also downsizing on frivolous spending. I'm sure they're all a joy to wear. And unlike the actual Rolex Explorer, you might actually enjoy wearing these without worrying if it gets a bit of dust on it. Until next time.
Yours Exploringly,
Alvin
BONUS WATCHES>
Watchdive WD1016 V2 37mm
It ain't too bad, but the name is way off.
Octopus Kraken 36mm
It looks good and I like octopuses, but a Kraken is like a massive octopus thing isn't it - lazy.
Links & Things
BALTANY
SAN MARTIN
ADDIESDIVE
PROXIMA
CRONOS
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