Welcome to this much overdue review for a watch whose first impressions post was in July 2023, oops. Forget those Rolexes and those Tudorses, forget those Swiss beaters, it's time we go back East, it's time we went back to them Chinese watches. I didn't realise until recently I hadn't done a full review for the 40mm Sugess Panda, that is terrible form, unlike the watch itself. It's not been fully ignored, it had some kudos from me after comparing it to the 38mm, where it came out on top. Actually, I wear almost every watch in the collection but the 38mm just hasn't been in mix, might be a giveaway or a sale in the near future for that one!?
History/Background
The plethora of Sugess chronograph variations are updates to the original SeaGull 1963 watch from Tianjin Watch Factory. They introduced their first watch in 1961, and a piece for the Air Force was produced a few years later. The watch utilised the Venus calibre 175, a Swiss-made chronograph with a column-wheel construction that was popular in the 1940s and 1950s. At the time, Breitling employed this movement, so it's fitting that the 40mm Sugess Panda and the Breitling Premier B01 Panda (automatic/date) look so similar.
In recent years the Seagull ST1901 chronograph has been the basis for numerous iterations of the dual subdial/bicompax watches from China to the UK. Aliexpress and eBay are aflood with Chinese brands using the movement, Sugess, Seagull, Red Star, Tophill, and San Martin amongst others. A few global microbrands have also grabbed the solid mechanical movement and proudly, which is reassuring - the likes of Baltic (France) and Studio Underdog (UK) have used the movement. Needless to say, there is no better value mechanical/hand wound movement.
Imgs: Studio underd0g.com / Baltic-watches.com
Purchase / Post / Packaging
I bought this from eBay when I already had the 38mm and hadn't really taken to it. It was pre-owned and already on the rubber strap which is actually perfect for it. It was delivered to me in July 2023, in mint condition and at £119 all in, it was a pretty good deal. It came in the original box though I can't remember if that was a plastic peli style one or a cardboard box. I was pleased, proportionally it works better than the 38mm.
At the start of writing I have added a link at the bottom of the page for Aliexpress which had this watch, 40mm swan-neck panda (picture that creature) for the low low bargain price of £92.68 / $121.25 - granted the prices do fluctuate but hopefully not too much.
Case, Dial & Hands
This is a well balanced and pleasing panda face dial. The size of the dials is right, the batons hour markers are lumed nicely, and the dial text 'Mechanical Chronograph' is kept simple, to the point and in a decent, clean font. I am a fan of every hour having a marker, even if they are smaller ones due to subdials or date windows, this dial then is ticking boxes but if there is an issue it's the chronograph subdial hand and seconds hand being a little clunky and unrefined - a minor thing at this pricepoint (this is will be a recurring factor of justified justification). As is the boring main chronograph hand, I want a counterbalance star or something, like on the 38mm.
I suppose the minute and hour hands are fine too, simple and straightforward but some will say the minute hand is too long, fair point. While we're taking shots, there is an issue with the markings either side of the 12 and 6 markers, the vertical lines don't seem to align with the marker. At first I thought the lines were off, but actually it's the markers that aren't on straight (see the first photo of the post), tut tut. It's a QC fail or they just accepted the margin of error, also tut tut. It's not too bad and it's these kinds of things that you can choose to allow at this price point I guess...
At 40mm with no bezel it allows for the outside tachymetre track in black, framing the dial and complementing the subdials for a nice finish, on the 38mm this doesn't work. Continuing outward the case is polished steel all around, and the transition from bezel to main case is smooth. There is a nice grip on the crown and it feels solid to use. It is not screw down but does feature a star motif on it, a signed crown is a must but it's something that is missed in the lower price brackets, again, not here. The chrono pushers are simple and look fine.
I know. I nailed it. Nikon D600 ftw.
Turn it over, and you get a show and a half, oooweee. It is, taking that price range into account, quite simply one of the most satisfying display casebacks on Earth. For fans of horology and for a first mechanical watch it is a no-brainer, you get to see everything, there's a lovely depth and variety of finish - tis superb, almost at Daddario levels on stare scale. It's thoroughly ogleworthy is what I'm saying.
Strap, Function and Fit
First lets get to the most annoying thing about this watch, those damn vampire teeth lugs. This is a 40mm watch, yet the lug to lug is 50mm, is that right? Yes, it's madness I tell you, madness. If it wasn't for the chunky strap, this watch would likely be unsightly on my skinny wrist. On a positive note here, the watch is a strap monster that requires monster straps if you've got a skinny hand-ankle, otherwise have at it!
Them lugs!
Lug-gage aside, the watch sits nicely on the wrist as the lugs curve downward nicely. The pushers I have an issue with, and it's one that is common to Chinese chronographs that I have fiddled with. They just feel a bit spongey and lifeless, lacking a tactile quality that gives a nice bit of feedback, but some might say I was being too picky. Off the shelf then it has a few issues but they can be rectified without too much trouble. There naturally have to be allowances in the lower price ranges.
Movement & Accuracy
This is the main attraction I guess, as you'll know by now I couldn't wait to share the caseback photos of the handsome and reliable (like me) ST1901 mechanical chronograph. While I have not tried the cheap timegrapher I bought, I can say I've not had an accuracy issue for any of the Sugess/Seagull watches I have in the collection. These days I think they're pretty good with it, but there's always a risk.
Zoomed in on that one I nailed. Oh damn.
There aren't any other watches at this pricepoint that can match this display caseback. Go on then, name one, I dare you? It is such a bonus to have on a bargain watch, it elevates the whole thing to a horological necessity for those already into hellscape of watch fandom and those who are learning about watches or on the way to becoming time obsessed maniacs. It's all good.
I used this photo in a previoius post but it's so damn nice that I used it twice.
Competition / Value for money
Is there anything that can match this combination? An inconic panda dial, a mechanical movement that looks hella good through the caseback, and a well finished, reliable package. There is no panda that can compare, but there are loads and loads of ST1901 colour and deign variations, they are the direct competition in regards to value. In terms of straight looks and matching the bicompax chronograph pandas that likley inspired the Sugess 40mm we have, the Hamilton Intra-Matic and, the Breitling Premier (AB0118221-G1P1).
These both have a date function but price is the main variance, best pre-owned prices ranges respectively are circa £1000 and circa £3000, which is quite a difference considering neither look as good from behind.
Just had to get another one in.
Conclusion
The 40mm Sugess ST1901 Panda Chronograph is quite frankly, one of the best value watches you can buy. I say that because I own some of the best value watches you can buy. The ones that can match it for bang for your buck are the Sugess Moonphase, Aesop Tourbillon and the Seiko SNXS73 - to be honest it's probably better than all of them because it's delivered in an iconic package.
Those mentioned are all mechanical or automatic with something special under the hood. Like those it punches above it's weight, it's reliable and attractive, it will likely get you a complement and gives you a story to tell, if you can find anyone who might want to listen. Even if they don't, tell them anyway because this watch is worthy of sharing, praise and purchase, so go and buy one now - you can get one for under £100! This makes me shake my head when I think about my Rolex, and then smile when I think they are loved almost equally. So, go now, to Aliexpress and buy much watch for not many moneys, it will be Pandamonium in your watch brain until you do.
Yours Sugesstively,
Alvin
P.S. Apologies if I have used that sign off before.
PARTICULARS
MODEL
Sugess Panda Chronograph ST1901
CASE DIAMETER / THICKNESS / MATERIAL
40mm / 13.5mm / 316L Stainless Steel
LUG WIDTH / LUG TO LUG
20mm / 50 mm
MOVEMENT
Sea-Gull ST1901
Hand-winding mechanical
45 Hours Power Reserve
29 Jewels
21,600 Beat Rate
WATER RESISTANCE
100m
LINKS & THINGS
BEST DEAL
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