Watch Review | Seiko SKX009J1 - the Dive Legend Lives On.
- Alvin
- 6 hours ago
- 9 min read
Well, well, well, if it isn't a 'better late than never' review, seems to be my specialty. This one is not only especially late, it's also special. It's the watch that got me properly into watches, the consensus best value real-diver and desk-diver, the second best pepsi bezel in the world...the one, the only - Seiko SKX009J1 (though there are a few versions). It's SKXy time - that works right...
The SKX009J1 has a lot going on, it's a dive watch that has brought joy to many, and sparked the imaginations of watch fans around the world. Known for its reliability, classic design, and affordability, this model has become a staple in the world of mechanical dive watches. This review explores the SKX009J1 in detail, covering its design, features, performance, and overall value to help you decide if it deserves a place in your collection.
Quick History
I didn't know much about this watch when I bought it, just that it was quite popular and it looked awesome. The Seiko SKX009 was introduced in 1996 as part of Seiko’s SKX diver line, using the 7S26 automatic movement, a 43 mm case, a black dial and red/blue “Pepsi” bezel that became its defining look. It was produced for more than 20 years, became one of Seiko’s best-known entry-level mechanical dive watches, and was discontinued in the second half of 2019. I picked mine up in 2018, not realising how much of a legend it was or that it would soon be discontinued. Lucky.
The SKX009 sits in a longer Seiko diver lineage that runs through the 1965 62MAS, the 1976 6309, and the 1988 7002, which the SKX line broadly succeeded. If you love the 62MAS, and don't want to spend £2k, you can get reinterpreted modern versions (SPB143, SPB147 & SPB149) for around £1000 or a homage for £200. But the evolution - SKX - is just cooler.
Seiko launched the SKX series in 1996 with the 7S26 movement, positioning it as a rugged, affordable diver platform rather than a luxury watch. The SKX009 was one of the two breakout references of that launch, alongside the black dialled SKX007, I was lucky enough to snag one of those in 2018 as well - right place, right time, I suppose.
The standard reference family included J and K suffixes, which were market/designation codes rather than mechanical differences. the J being for made in Japan and K for Korea if I understand correctly (I have the J, I bought the K for my brother - I know I'm so nice). The watch was sold in the North American market as the SKX175, I think it's identical to the SKX009.
The SKX’s reputation came from doing a few things very well: it was tough, legible, water-resistant enough for real diving, and cheap enough to be a true tool watch. Some call it a beater, but I don't think it should be beaten, it's too nice. Its Pepsi bezel made it instantly recognisable, and its long production run built a large user base and a strong aftermarket modding culture. On Watch Crunch the other day I saw someone had swapped out the old movement for a new NH35, it lives on and is loved even in Frankenwatch form. Besides that, seven years after being discontinued, you can still buy new ones, which makes me wonder how many were made!
Quick Stats.
Model Name / Reference | SKX009J1 | aka SKXy Time. |
Release date | 1996 | |
Case & Size | 43mm 13.5mm thick | Stainless Steel, screw down crown |
Lug to Lug | 46mm | Lug width 22mm |
Movement | Seiko 7S26 automatic | day-date, 21 jewels, 41-hour power reserve, 21,600 vibrations/hour, no hacking. |
Glass | Hardlex Crystal | |
Discontinued | 2019 | But still available new and pre-owned |
Purchase, Post & Packaging
We're going way back here, to 2018, but due to the significance of this purchase I actually have the details locked-in. It was a gloomy, English Wednesday in April. The sky groaned and clouds were everywhere, blocking the rays of happiness from shining upon me. So, I created my own happiness by going on Creation Watches (CW - from where I have bought many, many watches - at least 7) and put some of that dopamine to work, the basket actually contained a sexy Seiko trio, an SKX009J1, an SKX009K2 and a Seiko 5 Field SNK805K2. What a lucky s.o.b you're thinking, to have snagged these watches back in the days, but wait for the best part. The cost of this trio was a delicious, £353 with free shipping. That's right folks, before COVID, miracles were possible.
A punch to the wallet it was not. I could go onto CW and check my account to see the individual prices, but why rub salt into my own and your wounds. Let's just say it was a bargain and a half. The package of Japanese delights arrived within 4 days and I'm sure I was as happy as the proverbial Larry. Brace yourself, on CW right now, a SKX009J1 on the trash rubber strap is £454. a 009K1 is £427. I guess there is some upside to being old.
Design - Case, Dial & Hands
There is much said about the design of the Seiko SKX009J1. It's a classic diver’s watch, it's got that "Pepsi" bezel, it's got presence and wearability on most wrists. True, there's so much more - I'll be god damned if this isn't one of the most compelling and attractive dive watches ever made. So, it makes sense that it's still going strong after 30 years. The hands, dial indices, chapter ring, dial text, it's all just so interesting, circles, oblongs, syringes and triangles with a soft edges, hard edges, protrusions and precision. You could teach your child many shapes with this watch.
The dial is plain, matte black, and everything sits in harmony upon or around it. There not only variation in shapes, the texture and finishes, brushed and polished steel on the case side and lugs, the bezel and crown grips add numerous angles that catch the light and the eye. The hands are polished broad arrow and syringe shapes, they catch the light too, with inset large lume area. The seconds hand is black and white with lollipop counterbalance. So much going on, but it's subtle and balanced. I love a detailed chapter ring, here it's just minutes and hour lines but it's a deep dish.
The watch uses a Hardlex crystal, Seiko’s proprietary hardened mineral glass, which offers good scratch resistance while keeping costs down compared to sapphire crystals. The screw down crown at 4 o’clock enhances water resistance and adds to the watch’s distinctive, curvy profile. But this is where there's a problem, in my opinion, the only design centred problem with this watch. The crown isn't bloody signed is it. Come on, an 'S' crown would have made this watch (along with case being a touch smaller) the perfect package for me (I like certain things - watch design details that make a watch look better).
The bezel is unidirectional with 120 satisfying clicks (allegedly, I have not counted them), allowing precise timing for diving or other activities. The markers are clear and the grip is tactile and looks great. The caseback has the Seiko Tsunami on it, it protrudes a bit but isn't a big deal, it's a chunky watch, so you have to deal with it.
Dial text is always a welcome feature on a dive watch, they always want to flex their metres, and Diver's 200m is a nice way to make it clear - the orange is the right colour. Automatic as well, back in 1996, stating automatic was probably a good idea - it's not long after the quartz crisis, not that Seiko had any issues during that time. I guess you could say the 21 jewels text is unnecessary these days, but it's actually the only indication (other than the Made in Japan text...) that this watch was made in Japan. The Korean made variants don't feature it, that's a fun fact isn't it, love a bit of trivia.
Strap & Fit
Now, this came on that nasty Seiko rubber strap of old. It's been on various cloth straps and nato's since then. It settled on the blue nato at some point and has never left it, tis perfect. This is not a small watch, at 43mm it's the biggest watch I still wear (strict case size), and it's tall, at 13.5mm not including the caseback. The nato does add some heft, but it also adds layers and distraction from the largeness of it all. For me, that works really well, but since buying the 36mm Nomos (and loving it), other watches do feel bigger.
In addition, the skxy curves of the case and separation of the bezel break up the sides to ease the impact of the chunk. The short lugs help this too, always welcome for me, as you well know - 46mm lug to lug on a 43mm case is what we love to see.
Movement and Accuracy
Inside the SKX009J1 is the Seiko 7S26 automatic movement, an old school workhorse known for its durability and ease of maintenance. There's not much else to say really, it's not the best movement but it does the job real nice. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. some purists will moan that it doesn't hack (stop the second hand when setting the time) or allow manual winding, but really this isn't major - ever heard of the Seiko shuffle...?
In real-world use, the SKX009J1 is probably good for diving, and you probs could go down to 200M if you wanted, that's a lot though, so be careful. Apparently, it can typically gain or loses about 10 to 15 seconds per day, which is acceptable for a cheap automatic watch - which mine is, but yours wouldn't be. I can't say I've had any issues or noticed anything amiss. Its durability means it can be worn daily without worry - but in rotation it's not had much wear for the past few years. Saying that, replacement parts and servicing are also relatively affordable, thanks to Seiko’s widespread availability and reputation.
Competition / Value for money.
Obviously, in terms of value for money, from my perspective, it is unsurpassed. It was under £199, what more could one possibly want in a dive watch. At today's prices (say £300+/$400+ for decent pre-owned) you have a lot more choice, not just from Seiko and Citizen, there are micro-brands like Spinnaker and Nodus, Not to mention the Aliexpress dive watch segment is flush with decent quality watches - sure mostly homages. The Orient Mako is the obvious best alternative - though the design is quite different. I have one - it's awesome, and you can pick up a Mako II or III for £140/£167 refurbished from CW - now that's a bargain. The Citizen Promaster NY0040 is also a popular alternative - it has very similar design language, launched in 1997 (I think), a bit sus.
The in-collection 'dive watch' competition comes in four pieces. The aforementioned Orient Mako II, the Seiko Samurai and the Tudor Black Bay. Oh, and the Seiko SKX007J1, the black bezel brother - it sits pretty on a milspec bracelet giving it a different vibe. The Samurai is just too big to wear these days, I haven't worn it for ages - I do miss the heft.
I guess if I fancy a red bezel, I have the Tudor, or if it's a blue bezel day, then the Orient. If I can't decide then the Pepsi hits the spot. Though not a diver, it also has competition from the Seiko SNA411 Flightmaster, another legendary Seiko of days gone by - but it needs a new battery.
Conclusion
You know what I think of this legend, it's a badass, mythical monster of a bygone era. You can't beat this for a full package. To think those people buying watches from 1996 - 2019, they had it easy - there was no competition. Nowadays, everything looks like something else, there's a homage for most watches out there. But it seems that out of respect and pure brute status, no-one messes with the SKX009J1. It's an absolute God Tier piece, there are few of those outside of Casio, def a handful of select Seiko's - I am fortunate to own a few of them (Flightmaster/SARB03*/SNXS).
To be formal and clear, the Seiko SKX009J1 remains a standout choice for anyone seeking a reliable, affordable, and stylish dive watch. Its combination of classic skxy design, solid build quality, and proven collector kudos make it a dependable companion for daily wear and underwater adventures.
If you want the only real Pepsi bezel that can be worn without fear of imposter syndrome, that delivers everything dive watches need, without breaking the bank, the SKX009J1 deserves serious consideration. Whether you are a seasoned diver, desk-diver or a watch enthusiast looking for a classic or versatile timepiece, I can't recommend this enough. Even if you have skinny wrists, a nato or upgraded rubber strap could let you get away with it (try before you buy if possible). If you're a slim wristed diver then you'll be wearing it outside your wetsuit, so no worries. I'm as smitten as the day it arrived, those many years ago, at that beautiful, bargain price. It may not be the best on-paper, but it's the best on-wrist.
Yours Skxily,
Alvin
Particulars
MODEL NUMBER
SKX009J1
CASE DIAMETER / THICKNESS / MATERIAL
43mm / 13.5mm / Stainless Steel / Hardlex crystal
LUG WIDTH / LUG TO LUG
21mm / 46mm
MOVEMENT
Seiko 7S26
Frequency: 21,600 vph
Energy storage: 41 hours
WATER RESISTANCE
20 Bar /200M/ 20ATM
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LINKS
Creation Watches - I should be an affiliate
Fratello Watches - Seiko 7002
The Seiko Guy
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