Trying On 10 Patek Philippe Watches | AD Exhibition August 2026
- Alvin
- 21 hours ago
- 11 min read
It's been a while since I popped in to see the Lady at the AD, so I reached out with a message essentially saying - I miss you. And, the universe repaid my weakness with more nonsense. I mean, serendipitously, I had contacted her in time to make an appointment for the Patek Philippe Exhibition. I had no idea. Who says there are no Gods. This kind of exhibition is where they send out a bunch of watches (real but with a component missing) and we get to ogle them and wear them. Let's take a look at some of these beautiful bastards.
So beautiful they are. And wear them I did. I got to try on 10 or so Patek Philippe watches. That's insane isn't it. I'm balling in the Patek ballpark these days. Hans Wilsdorf who, Rolex what.
Patek Phillipe is quite new to me. A while ago I visited the Patek museum in Geneva but other than that, and the Nautilus being famous, I know nothing. It was the same with Rolex until the fated day that Lady at the AD introduced me. I wasn't that interested prior. Damn her. She's great at her job. Let's gooooo!
NAUTILUS 5811/1G-001
STEEL | 41MM | DATE | SWEEP SECONDS.
Let's start with a big boy. The one and only, the king of sports watches, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001. It was designed by Gérald Genta in 1976, scribbled on a napkin apparently, that scribble has been in charge of steel luxury sports watches ever since - inspired by transatlantic ship portholes apparently. Now you know.
I wasn’t sure what to expect, I’ve seen them everywhere apart from in the metal. Adorning the wrists of many a sportsman and celebrity. How was it? I hear you ask. It didn’t disappoint, that's for god damn sure. It’s beautifully crafted and it’s a joy on the wrist, if a touch big for me. It’s very well balanced and reassuringly heavy. I really liked it, but it wasn’t the best Patek I tried on. And it's steel, I would only buy this to resell at the ridiculous mark-up. I want Goooold. I do have a problem with very expensive watches that are not complicated or made from gold or platinum in some form. I'm changing, I'm becoming more of a douche-bag...must fight it...
Retail: £66,210 / $82,021
Pre-owned: £130,000+ / $175,000+
AQUANAUT 5968G-001
WHITE GOLD | 42.2 MM | FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH |
The next on the list and the wrist is an Aquanaut, a more substantial piece with a nice dial layout. It’s the Flyback Chronograph 5968G-001. That's because it's a chronograph that flies back, let me explain. Usually, the top button is start/stop, and the bottom is reset. With a flyback if you press the reset when the chronograph is in motion it will automatically go back to the start and keep running. Quite cool, and possibly useful for some people.
I think the rather large small seconds subdial brings something else interesting to the dial. Especially as I have issues with the hour and minute markers on Aquanauts, they are toned down here and milliseconds are added for the chrono which looks great I think (you'll see alts below). The flyback chronograph adds a taste of that complicated internal life that some Pateks live. I also like that no hour numerals have been cut off (at 5 and 7). It is quite thick (11.9 mm) and big, but it works. Still, that classic case shape and that strap isn’t doing it for me - for the record the Aquanaut was not designed by Gerald Genta.
Retail: £71,760 / $88,898
Pre-owned: £97,000+ / $130,000+
CALATRAVA 5212A-001
STEEL | 40MM | WEEKLY CALENDAR
Now this one is special. We are going extreme close-up for this one. The beautifully delicate script looks like it’s hand-written, which is the idea, as it's taken from the designers sketch directly and not tidied up too much. A very cool idea. There is a lot going on here, but it's not over the top. It has two pointer dates, one for day of the week and another for the week of the year. The dial is busy, but the font, thoughtful composition/design and thin lines give a graphic type aesthetic that I absolutely love, it’s one of my faves from the day.
Saying that, I’d never heard of it or seen it before, which is the right way to be introduced to some pieces, maxiumum impact. It’s quite different to the Pateks that are common on the socials and the interwebs..What it does have in common with those pieces is that it's steel. What it doesn't have in common is that it sells way under retail. Bargain, I'll take two (unintentional Grand Theft Auto VI reference - oooooweeee).
Retail: £34,820 / $43,136
Pre-owned: £21,950+ / $29,000+
AQUANAUT 5167R-001
ROSE GOLD | 40MM | DATE | SWEEP SECONDS.
This is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001 Date, sweep seconds. It's the standard configuration with a precious metal twist. I never really took to the Aquanaut, I never liked the shape. And, it didn't disappoint, it was predictably underwhelming. Yes, it’s a classic sports watch, yes it looks great on me, but it’s a bit dull. And I don't like the rubber strap. Just imagine buying this watch in steel with a rubber strap, £10k for a Submariner is bad enough. But £22k for one of these in steel is insane - says the guy with 40 watches, and at least £20ks worth of steel watches. Unless you resell obvs.
I hadn't tried on any rose gold watches prior to this day, but I must say that I like the look. It suits me very much, if I do say say myself - the Lady at the AD agreed! Of course she did. I don't love the dial style/layout, the minute and hour markers/track are too big. It feels a bit tight along the edge. This can be forgiven when when the dial gets other design feature and complications, nice segue...
Retail: £43,200 / $53,514
Pre-owned: £70,000+ / $94,000+
AQUANAUT 5261R-001
ROSE GOLD | 39.9MM | ANNUAL CALENDAR | MOON PHASES
Sticking with the rose gold and the requested complications to make that Aquanaut dial a bit more interesting, we have the 5261R. The rose gold still works for me, the gold accents on the subdial and hours play off each other and the case really nicely. The dial colour is really nice, opaline blue-grey and contrasts well with the rose gold. Noice.
I think the large marker track around the dial could be reduced in depth, and everything would work better but it's the trademark design of the Aquanaut so what can I do. The additional subdials add variation and it mostly works well. They removed the 6 o'clock marker for the date but then the 12 is cut off which I don’t like. A logo at 12 is always a winner - should have gone small logo above the moonphase. I'm not super Patek literate but I can't recall seeing a logo at twelve. Always on the crown and buckle, but not on the dial. Interesting. This watch overall though is my fave of the Aquanauts I saw.
Retail: £58,440 / $72,394
Pre-owned: £126,000+ / $170,000+
CALATRAVA 6196P-001
PLATINUM | 38MM | TIME ONLY
This is one of the best of the bunch, the Calatrava 6196P is a legit beauty. This one was on the radar, it went kinda viral in the watch world. That salmon dial is just perfect, it’s Rose-gilt opaline by the way, yes sir. The black faceted markers are marvellous - they are a feature on a few Pateks and are something I had overlooked, but they are perfect way of elevating a marker, glossy and classy (see 5212A, Weekly Calendar above too).
The size is almost perfect at 38mm, that sounds like it should be bang on but the lugs are a touch long. This is a good example of how maximising that dial and making a more prominent dress watch can hinder wearability but it's not so bad. The 6196P is a daddy of a dress watch and that P stands for platinum which is a high-level, low-key flex. If Patek can be low-key that is. It's also very, very nice from behind! Something I didn't get enough shots of were the beautiful backsides, I mean casebacks.
Retail: £41,990 / $52,013
Pre-owned: £40,000+ / $53,000+
NAUTILUS 5726A-001
STEEL | 40.5MM | ANNUAL CALENDAR | MOON PHASES | 24-HOUR
Here we have a complicated, chunky boy. The Nautilus 5726A annual calendar with moon phases. While big can be beautiful. I would refrain from using that description here. It’s 40.5mm in steel, with 11.3 mm thickness, so it's not actually that big, but without a bracelet it just looks like a big chunk of steel on that alligator strap (I think).
I love the double date under the 12 o'clock and logo - it fits perfectly, tight and clean. However, in the middle/under the hands and at 6, they’ve cut into the moonphase/24 hour, subdial. I don’t love that. This one is not really doing it for me, maybe it’s the steel. It's again, that issue of luxury steel. For this price I want precious metals…I want them now!
Retail: £46,020 / $57,015
Pre-owned: £54,000+ / $73,000
COMPLICATIONS 5935A-001
STEEL | 40MM | WORLD TIME | FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH
It’s another complicated one and it’s pretty too, they're trouble those ones aren't they!? In fact this is almost my favourite. The design just screams look at me, touch me - it's steel but we'll allow it this time cos it's so very pretty. The colour just pops, it’s that rose-gilt opaline again - a surefire winner. At the centre there is a "carbon" pattern which works until it's called carbon. That doesn' fit with the slick vibe.
They do colour/metal variations in white gold (left - without chronograph, also the denim strap is horrific) and platinum (right -- love the emerald) - we won't look at those prices.
The worldtime steal the show, but it's a tirade of detail being thrown at you in this girthy (12.75 mm), 41mm package. You’ve got country markers on the rotating outside rings, and a minute ring and a 24 hour ring. It’s a beauty but it also satisfies that watch geek with buttons to press, and cogs that click, clack - oh yea and it's also somehow got a chronograph
that flies back.
This is ridiculous to say, but it's "entry level complicated Patek" at it's finest (there is a Grand Complications collection after all) with deals to be had in the pre-owned market - just don't break it...
Retail: £57,830 / $71,643
Pre-owned: £39,000 / $52,558
CUBITUS 7128/1G-001
WHITE GOLD | 40MM | DATE | SWEEP SECONDS
Last but definitively not least. Once in a while, you'll have a watch moment that changes your mind, this was one of those. Before this exhibition, my only thoughts on the Cubitus were that it was a bit big and a bit ugly.
And that was consensus among many a watch fan. But the key things are that the hate was at the 45mm version (5821/1A-001), which was released first. This 40mm then, might just get thrown out with the trash alongside it. It is a true fact, no slight intended, that most watch fans will never get to see one in the wild, less so get to try on one.
If they did, they still might not like it. But the Lady at the AD insisted I try it, and to look at the 40mm definitely looked more agreeable next to the 45mm (which also fitted to be fair, as it's a short lug situation). The 40mm, what can I say, other than - I absolutely love this watch. It is so reassuringly snug, and heavy. It just hugs the wrist like it loves you back.
This is the personification of precious metal sports watches. It's just awesome. I've tried on full gold Rolexes, GMT Masters, Daytonas and Sea-Dwellers (a luxurious monster), they pale in comparison. The balance and poise are unparalleled in my limited experience. I also tried on a Laurent Ferrier - a direct competitor, sports watch, in steel at the same price point. I don't like the design, but that aside, the comparison for me is a joke. No offence, Mr Ferrier is a legend in so many ways, it's just not my jam. I intentionally waited before writing this up so I wouldn't be too hyped up, but the hype is real, I'm throwing shade everywhere. Deal with it. The Cubitus is king.
Retail: £68,220 / $84,522
Pre-owned: £95,000+ / $128,500
If you're looking for a pre-owned watch, Patek or otherwise - check out the guide here.
MY TOP THREE
The intro to Patek then was a wild whirlwind (actually I didn't get to see a tourbillon). I say many others in their cases, it was quite something. Which were your top three Alvin? I hear you ask. These are them, and in reality I would juggle the models a touch so I got three different preicous metals (rose gold, white gold and platinum). Well, when hysterical and doing hypothetical shopping - go all out right!!!
CUBITUS 7128/1G-001 (white gold or rose gold, tbc, both..)
COMPLICATIONS 5935A-001 (actually I'd go with the platinum/green one)
CALATRAVA 6196P-001 (or I'd go white gold with date)
Honourable mentions - CALATRAVA 5212A-001 WEEKLY CALENDAR (also special).
So many choices to make. But alas, it was only a dream...
REALITY HITS MILDLY HARD
The Lady at the AD knows what she's doing. It was around a year since I last visited and she floated Patek back then, this time she had me floating. In a bubble of make-belief and dopamine fever-dreams. When she showed me the Cubitus, she mentioned that luxury buyers are very fond of square watches, but the choices are limited. So, while everyone screamed bloody murder at the Cubitus, they were calm. While it will always split the room, maybe a good watch should. The truth is, they know what they're doing. Pretty obvious when you think about it.
What is also obvious to me, is that at this point it is highly unlikely that I will ever own a Patek Philippe watch. At this age, in the middle of them forties, and as it has been for a few years, I am quite lazy about status, progression and making money. I did alright for a while, but I don't really have the drive to do things just to make lots of money. While I don't doubt my ability to give things a go, I do love learning new things and understanding the world. But it is hard work. And I don't want to work hard for someone else, for another persons company. No bosses (it could happen again but I hope it doesn't) I want to do what I want, and make enough money for me to do things I want.
Quite frankly, I have enough watches to last me a lifetime - I'm not saying I won't buy more- I'm just saying. Currently, I'm trying to build up the blog and transitioning into low-tech/high-art from finance - there is not a lot of money coming in. That's a choice, I have finance to fall back on but the longer I wait, I may not be able to return to where I was. True facts hurt. Watches cost money.
IRL, these watches are for high-net worth individuals. Those with 6 figure bank balances, and money to burn. I won't ever have that kind of money, unless I win the lottery (which I rarely do), or a family member does or does very well. The latter could happen. I am brother to many and uncle to some lovely people brimming with potential and drive. Oh, I forgot, I did get a Patek catalogue, that's pretty cool...
My only shot is getting this watch media minnow to some kind of level where Patek might send me a watch for being awesome. At this point, there is no other (non-complicated/wearable) watch I would have. The dopamine for this potential event should have receded by now, but it hasn't. That is some impression to leave on a man as watch obsessed and fickle as myself. Their tagline is:
You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.
I don't have kids, so if I got a Patek I could leave it to a nephew or niece. But I've just had an idea. Abloody brilliant idea. If Patek were to gift me one, I would promise that I would have at least one child to pass it on to. That's a great idea, maybe they could send me two, so I could sell one to pay for that childs upbringing and education. My tagline could be "I would ruin my life and someone elses for a Patek Philippe". It's a great plan. My mum would also be quite happy with this.
Yours Generationally,
Alvin
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