This post was going to be called, 'Watches that scratched my itch without gouging the wallet', that makes sense but I went with the more search friendly option. I also get that every wallet is different, but there is something here for everyone just about. Regular people don't like having their wallets gouged, and while we 'watch-people' or 'horolophiles' aren't quite regular, we are more than partial to a bit of impulsive self-gouging, I know I have been, you probably have been too. You know I have been, cough-Tudor Black Bay Burgundy-cough, still love it though - I am wearing it now.
I showed the Ron Burgundy to my cousin for the first time the other day, he's not a watch guy. He suggested that Tissot and Tudor were on par...I was composed as I winced and shook my head. Nothing against Tissot, I own a few and one of their more expensive models (T-Complication Squelette) - of course I do. I had to qualify Tudor as the sister company of Rolex. He's after a nice watch, I hope he gets one and then another one haha, come to the dark side cuz!
I need those Ray-Ban glasses that have a camera built in to make live shots easier...
For this article I was going to only choose watches I have in my collection, but there are few others that I really like that are on the budget friendly list so I will include them afterwards. I will include prices that are common and have a quick look at pre-owned prices to factor them in, though some are cheap enough that you should buy new, taking quality control and return policies into account.
I'm very sure that I could get the first 6 watches for under £1000 even though what I paid might be a bit more, and obviously that is still a lot to spend, but in context it's pretty good and pretty cool. Get rid of those Rotary, Hugo Boss and Daniel W***ington watches, time to level up! Ok maybe not get rid if you own them (except DW, for shame), get rid of them of them as potential buys, throw them out of the basket and out of mind.
Anyway, I'll stop punching down though DW are probably used to it, maybe deserve it, maybe. Instead I will add the punch wrist shot, giving a different perspective on the fit of each watch. I'm glad I can share the below recommendations as an owner, I put my money where my mouth is, and now I have no money left. But it's ok, cos I have many nice watches...too many.
Tissot PRX Quartx 40mm
Swiss
£250 New / £195 Used (though I paid this new from creation watches)
One of the most important watches of the last few years, bringing entry-level luxury to the ground floor, the PRX is the best quartz watch for the money. It's Swiss, it's slick, it's versatile and there are bargains to be had. Also, weirdly the one I bought I didn't have to adjust the bracelet, I just wear it a bit loose - odd for a skinny wrist but adds to my enjoyment of it . I'm gonna go there and say if you can only afford one watch and you like the look of the PRX, just pick a colour and buy it. Whether it's your first watch or your wife (or whoever) has cleaned out your watch box in the divorce and you're low on funds - you won't be disappointed.
Omega MoonSwatch Mission to Mercury
Swiss
£240 New / Similar used
What is there to say, another important watch on the scene in the last few years but this one is more annoying due to the inability to get one for retail price in a retail store. I had to go to Paris to get one, not especially but I'd tried many times in London. It's a great idea, a nice choice of designs but you just might have to go hunting in eBayland before you find a deal. Also, I nailed the strap I know - an Aliexpress special.
Sugess Moonphase Master SU1908
Chinese
£125 New / often less on Aliexpress.
The king of budget dress watches, fun to wear and use with functionality and reliability (usually). You can't go wrong unless it goes wrong. It's one of the watches responsible for the rise in popularity and wider acceptance of Chinese watches, also nailed the strap on this one, looks fantastic as it complements the blue on the dial.
Aesop Tourbillon
Chinese
£210 New
One of my favourite watches, the only tourbillon in the collection, it's a mesmerizing whirlwind that still brings a smile to my face. The Aesop tourbillons are the cheapest decent ones you can buy. Is there any use for the mechanical whirlwind, no, but if you're going to buy a watch (that you don't need) you might as get one with some marvellous machinations that you love to watch.
Casio Royale / World Timer AE-1200WHD-1AVCF
Japanese
£33.00 New
Now we're into the clouds, into the God tier of watches, for less than the steak I had for lunch you can enjoy years of telling time around the world. A legend, a must have for any collection, even if you have Greubel Forsey and Jacob&Co in the box, you should have a Casio Royale to keep it real.
Seiko SKX007
Japanese
£250 Pre-owned
Another one of the most iconic watches in the world from the heyday of Seiko dive watches, the pepsi bezel will have people trying to hate but they can go take a dive off something. This watch has depth of design for days, curves, polished, brushed, presence, and is a strap monster, maybe the best of the best of the thousands of Seiko dive watches - for the money that is (Marinemaster saying hold my beer).
Those are my top dogs, watches I own and enjoy and will never sell unless Chinese Tourbillons somehow become price-inflated collectors pieces. The total of the best prices above is, £1050, but there is some wiggle room there. They are all pretty well regarded by the watch community, though of course the Chinese watches will have some detractors, and there is quality control risk with some Chinese watches/tourbillons. Thankfully, I've only had one bad experience...so far. In addition, I realise I haven't put the dimensions in but they all sit well on my 6.5inch/17cm (ish) skinny wrist - check the individual reviews and first impressions for more info.
Here are a few more that I recommend, but for one reason or another are a level below the above (ahem) in my opinion.
Sugess Panda Chronograph ST1903
China
Usually £150 / £99 on Aliexpress at time of writing / link below.
It's the lauded Chinese hero, the Sugess Panda or Kung-Fu Panda if you will. Another watch responsible for elevating the budget Chinese watch, of course the 1908 Chronograph in traditional military guise (further below) is the original 1963 Chinese chrono from Seagull that got everyones attention. There are loads of variations, and these have been tested so there are loads of reviews which is very helpful at this end of the market.
Orient Mako II
Japanese
£195 new
It's one of the best bang for your buck dive watches but it's just not as cool as an SKX009, you get better deals on it though and a few different colours. You get day/date and 6,9,12 sunburst dial which looks great, built very well and finished to a high standard.
Orient Bambino
Japanese
£189
You can get this second gen one that I have for £189 from ebay new, but there are now so many different iterations that you're spoilt for choice, it's a very versatile watch but not for everyone in terms of style with that dome crystal.
There are others, as below. but I just realised how weird it is that I don't have a cocktail time, I really like them and I'm sure the ice blue one was very much on the list a while ago.
Alternatives
There are so many, but I'm sticking to what I know. Check it!
Seiko 5 SSK003K1 / Blueberry
£400 new / Pre-owned £295 ebay.
I don't have one of these but it's a great sports/dive/travel watch if you can get a deal, a bit pricey otherwise per Seikos new pricing strategy which seems to be 'charge unreasonably more for everything.' Maybe it's a super omni-tool watch, it wears many hats, or crowns. Only problem is it's not an SKX009, and you're right, thats not my theo-wrist.
Imgs: Seiko.com
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time - SRPB41J1 / SRPE43J1 / SSA343J1
Japanese
£250-£300 pre-owned - some colours demand more.
Lots of choice of colours and finishes but some like the lovely ice blue version are double the price. There are also the newer ones like the SRPE43J1 (middle), that come in at a similar price but are a bit less dressy.
Imgs: Seiko.com
Sugess ST1906 Chronograph Power Reserve / Sugess ST1901 Chronograph Enamel DialÂ
China
£200 new.
The Sugess Moonphase Master above is a classic dress watch, it has a lot going on which is what people like about it - it deals with all the action very well. And the Panda is a design icon with a respected movement. If you want something simpler then Sugess offer a plethora of chrongraphs, many are homages but have their own twists or are obscure enough that regular people won't usually make connections (Breitling, Patek + Zenith). And they look great and are built well (usually). Oh and getting an enamel dial for less than £200 is pretty much proof that there is a God/a greater power out there in the horoloverse (or there isn't - exploited labour forces - I hope it's the former. It's all very automated these days I'm told).
Casio F-91W + A168WEM-1EF
Japanese
£20 / £40
So you could just buy both of these, they are often available at even more of a discount. I don't have either but I bought my younger sis A168 and she had the F91W. Alongside a Skagen and an Omega Constellation, she loves them all. Obviously she has a great role model.
imgs: Casio.com
This was a fun post to write, research and shoot. I have recently been looking at steel & gold watches, looking to take the next step in this ticking jewellery journey but getting back to basics was nice, and it's good to get a reality check. I added the countries to these too as you may have noticed, Switzerland, Japan and China, and it's obvious that the numbers will skew towards the latter two. Japan has always been there but it's nice that there are so many decent Chinese offerings out there too.
It's also nice, that though I can't buy an expensive watch at the moment, I almost bought 3 great value ones while writing this - if you can then you should. If you have babies to feed and can't stretch it, just get your babies the F-91W, and borrow it from time to time, then keep it and give it back to them as a family heirloom - you are welcome.
Yours Essentially,
Alvin
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