Watch wants | Why I've been researching Chopard?
Welcome to a regular post that isn't a buying guide. I was on a roll, posting many things, but then I got a bit ill. I had a viral infection. It wasn't the same infection that I have already, it was a different virus. The existing bug is of course the horrifically illogical horological disease. No, you can’t catch it twice, it just goes dormant for a while like herpes, until it’s triggered and then you feel sore. In the wallet. You know what I mean.
Anyway, I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned the esteemed and excellent Chopard in a post before, I mean I could go and check, but I can’t be bothered. Needless to say, they have really been on my mind, while being out of reach of my virtual wallet. Saying that, I would love to get my greasy mitts on a few of their beautiful pieces. Actually, they are so often like works of art that it's more than enough to just enjoy the craft and the beauty. No, you're right, it isn't. I want one, or more.
An aside, I recently travelled, on a long overdue jaunt to Europe, but it wassn’t where I usually trot off too. It was lands anew, and I thoroughly enjoyed the wonderfully scenic, food-centric Krakow (pronounced Krakov), in Poland. While it is a superb place I haven’t been tempted to watch browse as yet. I was there when I started thinking deeply about Chopard. However, the closest boutique to Krakow is Vienna in Austria, and the next closest one is in Karloff Vary (now on my radar, it looks real nice) in Czechia. Right, so not very close. I might be in Paris soon so will try and pop in then, though they might smell my poorness a while away. Back to it.
A QUICK HISTORY
Chopard's story kicks off way back in 1860, when 24-year-old Louis-Ulysse Chopard (he put the L.U.C in Chopard) fired up a precision watch shop in Sonvilier, Switzerland. He nailed ultra-thin, super-accurate pocket watches that folks wanted for everyday use, building a solid rep for quality Swiss timepieces. By 1885, they were supplying big names like the Swiss Railway, Tir Fédéral (Marksmanship/shooting competition), and even Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. From 1913 onward Chopard ads hyped the L.U.C legacy, with Louis-Ulysse's son Paul-Louis taking over through the World War I years.
Fast forward to 1937, and Chopard shifts to the watchmaking wonderland, Geneva, under grandson Paul-André. That set the stage for 1963, when Karl Scheufele III (whose family were jewellers and watchmakers**) snapped up Chopard from Paul-André, blending German jewelry flair with Swiss watch smarts. He and wife Karin supercharged growth, adding their own gold foundry in 1978.
In the '70s and '80s, they brought the bling: 1976 saw dropped Happy Diamonds, with loose stones floating between sapphire crystals, a total game-changer. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (Karl III's son) designed the steel St. Moritz sports watch in 1980, daughter Caroline kicked off jewelry with Happy Clown in 1985, and 1988 tied them to the Mille Miglia race for an enduring watch line. 1993's Happy Sport mixed steel and diamonds for that sporty-chic vibe.
Into the '90s and 2000s, they went big on in-house manufacture, 1996 birthed the Fleurier manufacture for exceptional movements, 1998 linked them to Cannes Film Festival (they still make the Palme d’Or), and 2000 unveiled the L.U.C Quattro with a wild nine-day power reserve. Milestones kept rolling: 2010's 150th anniversary Animal World jewelry splash, and 2016's L.U.C Full Strike minute repeater snagging the top Geneva Watch Prize in 2017.
Lately, they've doubled down on ethics and fresh designs, in 2019 they reimagined St. Moritz as the nature-inspired Alpine Eagle, and in 2022 launched My Happy Hearts, stackable heart charms symbolizing freedom for a new gen. Family-driven creativity and finding the right balance of historical goodness and innovation keeps Chopard near the top of the pile in luxury watches and jewels today.
ETHICAL, SUSTAINABLE, UNDENIABLE.
Chopard’s push into ethical practices really took off around 2013 with the launch of their “sustainable luxury” program, starting with Fairmined‑certified gold sourced from artisanal mines that pay fair wages, avoid child labour, and protect the environment. This wasn’t just talk; they became the first luxury brand to use it in jewellery and watches, and by 2018, it covered all their gold production. The goal was to trace every gram back to responsible origins while keeping the high standards of Swiss craftsmanship intact.
Beyond gold, Chopard expanded to ethical diamonds via the Responsible Jewellery Council since 2018, plus recycled gold and platinum in many collections by the early 2020s. They’ve cut their carbon footprint through solar power at Fleurier and Geneva sites, reduced packaging waste, and committed to 100% renewable energy. These steps tie into their family values now led by Caroline and Karl‑Friedrich Scheufele aiming to make luxury kinder to people and the planet without skimping on beauty or innovation. It’s great to see this side of the industry laid bare, transparency is key for trust and accountability. As a fan of ethical activity, I very much welcome this, even if it is cheaper when kids mine and make stuff...
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
It’s a been a few years since Chopard popped up in my watchosphere, and it was because of the often massive but regularly cool Mille Miglia and sporty Alpine Eagle, which I thought was an ugly little son of a dress watch. It is of course, a sports watch, and it’s not my cup of tea, it’s a bit flat and lacks finesse. The bezel is too round, too thick, but this dial is nice and it comes in 36mm (41mm below), which is also, nice.
Some people really like it though as a classy alternative to a Hublot, AP and Rolex. I get it, but I do not like it. What I do like is their kooky art and dress watch offerings. The pieces I like most manage to inject the jewellers flair without going too far, others you just have to admire for the craft and engineering. They do some elaborate and artisanal limited editions that really are beautiful.
The other one that got my attention awhile back was the Dia de los Muertos that mixes haute horology, a unique flair and creative chops. A minute repeater that is absolutely down and up my street design wise, but too big (42.5mm) for the skinny wrist, a tale as old as (my love of) time (pieces). Actually, these are timepieces I would consider getting fat for. It's a bit Narco's isn't it, it would go well with my silk Verace shirt...
MY FAVES
While most of their pieces are out my price range there are some that are just in, if we count the Rolex Explorer II purchase as a benchmark - there are so many contenders! But it was the 40mm L.U.C XPS Forest Green that made me think, oh yes please darling. If it was 37mm I would have probs bought one already, and it might have been a bit cheaper as it would use less gold...It's a kinda sector dial and it's kinda wonderful.
There are some bonkers price tags flying around on the Chopard website, but the XPS is somewhat less bonkers at an RRP of £11,000 / circa $15,000, while not exactly a steal (though it is steel) I have seen them at around £8,500 which is quite reasonable when you consider the sexiness of it all. Just imagine slipping it off your wrist to show someone the caseback and that beautiful little micro-rotor.
Chopard XPS Forest Green Chopard XPS Forest Green
The jump hour metier d'art Japan collection is really special. For a start the jump hour window is large enough to read from a distance, ahem Cartier take note. It's cool to see a jump hour get some serious attention and variation. Oh money, how I wish I had you to spend, so frivolously, so recklessly I would launch thee at the Chopard sales lady. The straw marquetry ones are £65,000 each and the Japanese ones are £57,000, so it would be bricks of cash that I'm throwing at the lady.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry
They are just low-key, horologically gob-smacking pieces - I mean if someone in the know sees you with one of these on, they gonna feel their heart skip a beat or just straight up die from exposure - I don't know what that is, but it sounds right. They are stunning pieces that are smart and dressy, but many you could get away with daily wear too, as long as you don’t dress loose, like Adam Sandler - actually that would be even cooler.
The size is an issue, some of their complicated pieces are large, so I found some 36mm offerings. If you can stand the weird bezel, the Alpine Eagle is available in 36mm. So, these are a bit fancy and some might say they are for the ladies, but I would wear all of them except the pink flowers one if someone wanted to buy me them. The good thing is because they're smaller, they're a better value being priced at around £90,000 / $121,500 - hold on a minute...
From top left we have the Imperiale Day & Night, the Metier d'art, Imperiale Four Seasons (bottom left), and last but literally not least, the L'heure du diamant moonphase, it's £102,000 / $138,000. Disgusting.
THE GRANDEST OF COMPLICATIONS
This is a territory of pure admiration, a place where you might just bite your lip in awe. These are works of horological art. Chopard are jewellers and watchmakers and this is so evident it hurts, there is a beautiful balance in their creations. They consider the source of their raw materials and serious as they consider the final outcome. Whether in Lucent Steel or the shape of a flower. For the person who has many things they don't need, have more, Chopard. May the lord strike me down, I'm so jel.
Any of these that say 'Strike', means they are minute repeaters. Below is the L.U.C Strike One Minute repeater, ref: 168627-3003. The hammer for the repeater is revealed at 1 o'clock and that salmon dial with straw marquetry is stunning. The large crown feature a button to get that repeater chiming. It's running a micro-rotor allowing the thickness to be under 10mm, it's just, wow.
Above, the L.U.C Strike One titanium featuring the lovely L.U.C 96.32-L micro-rotor, self-winding mechanical movement, it's real pretty.
They come in different shapes, and sizes but not enough smaller sizes, they are often over 40mm, which is unfortunate...for me. But not overly annoying because I can't afford them.
Below is the 2017 limited edition L.U.C FULL STRIKE ref 168604-3002, it's 42.5mm, and has a beautifully finished manual movement that is enveloped in ceramicised titanium. It's mint. Well, actually it's grey-green aka verdigris. Isn't it cool and minty?
And if you like to see more of whats under the covers, you have the option of a more exposed skeleton, below the chrono is the Grand Strike. There is something effortlessly elegant and I guess just plain sexy about the way they cut away pieces of the dial. Chopard knows what goes where, what to keep and what to chop - I guess the clues in the name.
A more classic look, in an unfortunate 45mm, is the L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph in titanium, ref 168611-3001. The design is busy but has a pleasing symmetry and is crafted to the highest of standards carrying both the Chronometer certification and the Poinçon de Genève (keep reading to find out what the hell that is...).
And then there is this...
"Chronometer-certified and bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, the L.U.C Grand Strike's contemporary, dial-less design showcases the 686-component caliber L.U.C 08.03-L, framed by elegantly understated curves that combine tradition with innovation."
The L.U.C Grand Strike is Chopard’s most ambitious chiming watch, combining grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie and minute repeater functions (plays tunes) with the brand’s sapphire crystal gongs. The L.U.C 08.03-L calibre took more than 11,000 hours of development and represents the most mechanically complex watch Chopard has produced. The front isn't bad looking either.
Oh, if you're wondering what a Poinçon de Genève is, it's not a complication but a prestigious independent quality hallmark covering origin, construction, reliability and finishing for mechanical watches made and tested in Geneva. Chopard is one of the relatively few manufactures still producing watches that qualify for it.
Alongside their Grand Complications selection, they have their Métiers d’Art offerings. These are watches built around decorative craft as much as mechanics, using techniques such as hand engraving, miniature painting, marquetry, Grand Feu enamel, gem-setting and Urushi lacquer. Chopard says more than 50 artistic crafts are practised within its workshops, with limited pieces often created around specific themes.
OLD SCHOOL COOL
Right, that's ll well and good and amazing, but let's take a step back. Back in time...vintage and neo-vintage. This might just be where my Chopard journey starts. You can go precious metals, vintage fit Chopard for just a few G's or K's if you prefer, of course one must take care when buying older models but there are bargains to be had.
For instance the Chopard Classic ref: 16/3154, vintage proportions at 33mm but a sophisticated dress watch in white gold, yours for less than £2,800, not including the flight to Japan or tax/duties.
Or this more recent Classic offering (below), the 163154-0201 is 36mm and comes in yellow gold. Yours for less than £4000 if you live in the USA, not including tax. They are simple pieces but they're elegant and they are Chopard.
Or, if you prefer a Tank shaped piece go for the Chopard Classic Tank ref 5096, a bit pricey at around £3000, but wait, it's white gold - very nice indeed. There are loads of options, and quite frankly it would be a pleasure to wear one of these classic 'bargains'. An iconic brand, precious metals, deal to be had... the hunt is on.
THIS IS THE END
It's certainly not the end of my lusting for a Chopard timepiece. But I have drooled all over the place ogling these ethically sourced, preciously metalled, horological works of art. I feel something different when looking at Chopard's offerings. There are other brands that are jewellers and makes watches or watchmakers that make art pieces, Cartier, Bulgari for the former and Vacheron and JLC for the latter come to mind (amongst others) , but there is something, the craft, an intent that Chopard just effuses that is special.
I'm a fan of Japanese history (most of it), culture, art and watchmaking so maybe their latest offerings have found their way into my heart with ease, but it is much deserved. Each high-end brand offers something different, they occupy a niche, and it's often those that don't blow their own trumpets or aren't known by everyone on Tik Tok, that are the ones doing the best work. Low-key perfection. Even if they need to downsize some of their pieces. Alongside that place they sit in comes a welcome bonus for buyers. Pre-owned prices come at a significant discount, the current base steel XPS retails t £11,000 but can be found for less that £8,000. Sure, the limited editions and more fancy pieces are not included, but there is a lot to see in the Chopard back catalogue.
Chopard XPS Forest Green CHOPARD L.U.C QUATTRO SPIRIT 25 STRAW MARQUETRY EDITION CHOPARD L.U.C QUATTRO SPIRIT ENSO CHOPARD L.U.C XP NIHONTŌ CHOPARD L.U.C QUATTRO SPIRIT SAMURAI LAST STAND L.U.C XP URUSHI UKIYO-E
There we have it. I think you can see why I've been researching Chopard. They do things in their own deliberate and exhaustively excellent manner. And for now, the appreciating from a distance is the way it well be for me. I will attempt to approach the subject with Zen, with wisdom and appreciation instead of just lust and wishful thinking. I do not need a Japanese inspired Swiss time-telling masterpiece, a shiny, pretty, jumpy hour thing is not needed on the wrist to appreciate the artistry and art of the jump. But it sure would be nice...
Yours Jumping-Joyously,
Alvin
Links & Things
All images are from Chopard.com unless stated.
History and Sustainability research done/drafted with Perplexity AI largely from -
[1] Chopard product history and timeline explained Watch mail order ... https://gc-yukizaki.com/en/k/watch/chopard/history
[2] Chopard - Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chopard
[3] History of Chopard https://www.yourwatchhub.com/chopard/history-of-chopard/
[4] A Brief History Of Time: Chopard's Watchmaking History https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-brief-history-of-time-chopards-watchmaking-history-part-two-1997-2021/
[5] Actualités de Chopard https://numero.com/portrait/chopard/
[6] Inside La Maison Chopard: Artisan of Emotions since 1860 https://www.laingsuk.com/blog/post/inside-la-maison-chopard-artisan-of-emotions-since-1860
**The Scheufele saga in 1890 seeing Karl Scheufele I born in Pforzheim, Germany. Orphaned young, he apprenticed as a goldsmith and launched his own jewelry firm in 1904, cranking out Art Nouveau-style watches, pendants, and bling under the "Eszeha" name that wowed Europe and beyond. The Scheufele side faced bombs in 1945 that wrecked their Pforzheim factory, but Karl Scheufele II rebuilt by 1947, handing reins to his son Karl III in 1958.
HODINKEE
L.U.C STRIKE ONE TITANIUM
L.U.C FULL STRIKE TITANIUM MINT
L.U.C XP NIHONTŌ
L.U.C QUATTRO SPIRIT ENSO
L.U.C QUATTRO SPIRIT SAMURAI LAST STAND
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